Top Deck at Jumbo

Ok, I admit it. My life has started to read like the Wallpaper Guide to Hong Kong. But I'm not convinced that is a bad thing, certainly not based on recent dining experiences.

Today was the turn of the Top Deck at Jumbo. A floating restaurant in Aberdeen.

Overpriced drinks - check

Dubious Western menu - check

Total tranquility relaxing with books for an entire day - check

A great day just relaxing with a book or two. I finally got to order a pina colada (of course I sang the song, repeatedly) along with a few glasses of fizz and various other beverages. Well, it would be rude not to. We were there for about 7 hours.

Ace. The perfect lazy Sunday, even if it was a Saturday.

Books, boats and flushing sounds..

Well, it is sometime since I had time for sit down and a "proper" update. So where to start?

Well firstly a little more on Japan (my true love...). Whilst I was there for the weekend I was fortunate to take a trip to Kamakura. This will, at some point, fill an entire post on its own. About an hour by train out of Tokyo it is a beautiful area by the sea, filled with temples, and the Great Buddha. He was pretty Great!

But, I will write a whole post with the beautiful pictures of Kamakura so for now I'll leave you with that little 'fluffer'...

Linking slightly to fluffers (this is Japan), have you ever been on a Japanese toilet?? These high-tech machines create a whole new bathroom experience!

Firstly, the lid lifts automatically for you (IR sensor). As you sit there is another sensor you can run your hand in front of (no need to touch - hygiene is king) which creates a flushing sound so no one can actually hear you on said toilet! There are then at least three "spray" options you can choose (for washing), and the whole lid closing / flushing is again automatic. It amazes me that after all this there is rarely soap in the bathrooms. In HK you can hardly move for soap and antiseptic sprays (I've told you before that my apartment lifts are disinfected every two hours...)

So yes, Japan, the future of toilets...

Back in HK it has been one exciting trip (to dinner) after another. Thursday night was the China Club. Everyone in HK is a member of somewhere and this is a members-only restaurant. However, it is not so strict that if you pretend to be someone else they throw you out (as demonstrated by our table being all female, yet a male "member" was dining that evening...).

The China Club is amazing. Set over three floors there is the main restaurant, the private dining rooms and the library and terrace. The food was delicious, but the whole experience was surreal. Displays of tea pouring (an art) and noodle making (I still have no idea how it is done) take place in the middle of the restaurant. The decor is traditional old Chinese. Yellow walls, intricate drawings and dark wood. The China Club also has an enormous collection of modern Chinese art.

Some beautiful, some slightly alarming (such as the man with a machete in his forehead and the bowl with live goldfish swimming around models of decapitated women).

The Library is amazing. 500 books on China, and a lot of others. Huge sofas and that library smell. Drinks on the terrace and for once the weather was kind and we were able to sit out. An amazing dining experience.

I am now very amused as have just found a blog "hong kong schmong kong" while searching for photos - I made it to dinner straight from the airport. Just.

Last night was a junk trip to, amusingly, Poi Toi O - of my earlier blog. Once again the food was amazing and being on the boat at night in lovely weather, cruising round the harbour, was great.

I think I have a slight preference for being there in the day as the views are so spectacular. However, rocking up on an enormous yacht (as opposed to falling out of the number 16 us) was fun!

I think I'm in HK for a few days now (I'll try mum!) so looking forward to settling back in. After weeks of sitting and eating I think a peak hike or three is in order. I just need to fit this in around the dinners I have planned... Hmm.

Fugu, sake, black rain and more flight delays

Hello all. Apologies I have ｂｅｅｎ a little neglectful of late. What can I say, the joys of work. Many, many meetings. I still find it slightly odd to be sat in negotiations with people sipping milky iced coffee through straws. At least it is noｔ　ｊｕｇｓ　ｏｆ，　increasingly　ｗａｒｍ，　ｍｉｌｋ．

Ｉ　ａｍ　ｂａｃｋ　ａｔ　Ｔｏｋｙｏ　ａｉｒｐｏｒｔ，　ｗａｉｔｉｎｇ　ｆｏｒ　ｍｙ　（ｖｅｒｙ）　ｄｅｌａｙｅｄ　ｆｌｉｇｈｔ．　Ａｇａｉｎ，　ｄｕｅ　ｔｏ　ｒａｉｎ．　Ｆｏｒｔｕｎａｔｅｌｙ（？）　ｉｔ　ｈａｓ　ｂｅｅｎ　ｓｕｃｈ　ｂａｄ　ｗｅａｔｈｅｒ　Ｉ　ｄｉｄ　ａｔ　ｌｅａｓｔ　ｒｅｃｅｉｖｅ　ａｄｖａｎｃｅ　ｗａｒｎｉｎｇ　ｏｆ　ｔｈｅ　ｄｅｌａｙ　ａｎｄ　ｇｅｔ　ｔｏ　ｈａｖｅ　ａ，　ｍｕｃｈ　ｎｅｅｄｅｄ，　ｌｉｅ　ｉｎ　－　ｒａｔｈｅｒ　ｔｈａｎ　ａ　５ａｍ　ｓｔａｒｔ．．．

Ｔｈｅ　Ｔｏｋｙｏ ｆｕｎ　ｃｏｎｔｉｎｕｅｄ　ｉｔｓ　ｅａｔｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅｍｅ．　Ｏｎ　ｔｈｉｓ　ｔｒｉｐ　Ｉ　ｔｒｉｅｄ　Ｆｕｇｕ．　Ｔｈｅ　”ｄｅａｄｌｙ”　ｂｌｏｗｆｉｓｈ．　（Ｐｕｆｆｅｒ　ｆｉｓｈ）．　Ｏｎｌｙ　ｌｉｃｅｎｓｅｄ　ｒｅｓｔａｕｒａｎｔｓ　ｃａｎ　ｐｒｅｐａｒｅ　ｉｔ　ａｓ　the　ｐｏｉｓｏｎ　ｋｉｌｌｓ　ｙｏｕ．　Ｗｅ　ｈａｄ　ｆｕｇｕ　ｓａｓｈｉｍｉ，　ｆｕｇｕ　ｒｉｓｏｔｔｏ，　ｆｕｇｕ　ｓｏｕｐ，　ｆｕｇｕ　ｓｕｓｈｉ　ａｎｄ　ｆｕｇｕ　ｊｅｌｌｙ．　Ａ　ｐｒｏｕｄ　ｍｏｍｅｎｔ　ｆｏｒ　ｍｅ　－　ｍａｎａｇｉｎｇ　ｔｏ　ｅａｔ　ｊｅｌｌｙ　ｗｉｔｈ　ｃｈｏｐｓｔｉｃｋｓ！　Ｂｒｉｎｇ　ｏｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｆｌｙ　ｃａｔｃｈｉｎｇ．．．

Ｆｕｇｕ，　ｗｈｉｌｓｔ　ａｎ　”ｅｘｃｉｔｉｎｇ”　ｍｅａｌ　（ｙｏｕ　ｍａｙ　ｄｉｅ）　ｉｓ　ａｃｔｕａｌｌｙ　ｆａｉｒｌｙ　ｔａｓｔｅｌｅｓｓ　ｉｔｓｅｌｆ．　Ｔｈｅ　ｆｏｏｄ　ｗａｓ　ｈｏｗｅｖｅｒ，　ｄｅｌｉｃｉｏｕｓ．　Ａｎｄ　Ｉ　ｄｉｄｎ‘ｔ　ｄｉｅ．　Ｈｕｒｒａｈ．

Ｉｎ　ｃｅｌｅｂｒａｔｉｏｎ　（？）　ｏｆ　ｓｕｒｖｉｖｉｎｇ　ｍｙ　ｌｕｎｃｈ　（Ｉ　ｓｔｉｌｌ　ｔｈｉｎｋ　ｉｔ　ｗａｓ　ａ　ｐｌｏｙ　ｔｏ　ｐｏｔｅｎｔｉａｌｌｙ　ｒｅｍｏｖｅ　ｍｅ，　ｓｏｍｅｗｈａｔ　ｐｅｒｍａｎｅｎｔｌｙ，　　ｆｒｏｍ　negotiations）．　Ａｓ　ｉｔ　ｍ￥ｗａｓ　ｍｙ　ｌａｓｔ　ｎｉｇｈｔ　ｉｎ　Ｔｏｋｙｏ，　ｔｈｅ　ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇ　ｍｅａｌ　ｗａｓ　（ｏｆ　ｃｏｕｒｓｅ）　ｍｏｒｅ　ｓｕｓｈｉ．　Ｔｈｉｓ　ｗａｓ　ａｃｃｏｍｐａｎｉｅｄ　ｗｉｔｈ　ｔｈｅ　ｓａｋｅ　Ｉ　ｓｈｏｕｌｄ　ｈａｖｅ　ｂｅｅｎ　ｄｒｉｎｋｉｎｇ　ｗｈｉｌｅ　ｅａｔｉｎｇ　Ｆｕｇｕ．　Ｉ　ａｍ　ｑｕｉｔｅ　ｔａｋｉｎｇ　ｔｏ　ｓａｋｅ！Ｉ　ａｍ　ａｌｓｏ　ｓａｄｄｅｎｅｄ　ｔｈａｔ　Ｌｏｎｄｏｎ－ｓｕｓｈｉ　ｗｉｌｌ　ｎｅｖｅｒ　ｂｅ　ｔｈｅ　ｓａｍｅ　ａｇａｉｎ．．．

Ｔｈｅ　ｓｕｓｈｉ　ｗａｓ　ｅｘｃｅｌｌｅｎｔ，　ｂｕｔ　ｔｈｅ　ａｐｐｅｔｉｓｅｒｓ　ｗｅｒｅ　ｓｎａｉｌｓ　ｂｏｉｌｅｄ　ｉｎ　ｓｏｙ　ｓａｕｃｅ．　Ｉ　ｈａｖｅ　ｎｅｖｅｒ　ｅａｔｅｎ　ａｎｙｔｈｉｎｇ　ｓｏ　ｃｌｏｓｅ　ｔｏ　ｔｈｅ　ｓｍｅｌｌ　ｏｆ　ｃａｔ　ｆｏｏｄ．　Ｔｈｉｓ　ｄｉｄ　ｒｅｓｕｌｔ　ｉｎ　ａ　ｑｕｉｔｅ　ａ　ｈｉｇｈ　ｌｅｖｅｌ　ｏｆ　ｓａｋｅ　consumption．　Ｙｕｍ，　Ａｎｄ　ｈｕｒｒａｈ　ｆｏｒ　ｎｏｔ　ｈａｖｉｎｇ　ｔｏ　ｇｅｔ　ｕｐ　ａｔ　５ａｍ！

Ｉ　ｗｉｌｌ　ｈｏｐｅｆｕｌｌｙ　ｂｅ　ｂａｃｋ　ｉｎ　ＨＫ　ｆｏｒ　ａ　ｖｅｒｙ　ｅｘｃｉｔｉｎｇ　ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇ　ａｔ　Ｃｈｉｎａ　Ｃｌｕｂ．．．　Ｃａｎ：ｔ　ｗａｉｔ！　Ｙｅｓ，　ｔｈａｔ　ｉｓ　ｆｏｒ　ｍｏｒｅ　ｆｏｏｄ．　Ｉ‘ｌｌ　ｔｒｙ　ａｎｄ　ｆｉｔ　ｉｎ　ｓｏｍｅｔｈｉｎｇ　ｏｔｈｅｒ　ｔｈａｎ　ｍｅｅｔｉｎｇｓ　ａｎｄ　ｅａｔｉｎｇ　ｓｏｏｎ！　

A really long commute??

Well, if I ever thought international travel was glamorous I am now pretty much over that! Today was a flight to Tokyo, yes exciting, but it is late, I am tired and I have work in the morning.

The reason you 'benefit' from this sleepy post is that my room is 'not quite' ready so I am in the business centre. I'm not entirely sure when the hotel expected me to check in but in two minutes we are in tomorrow...

Airline managed to yet again not load a vegetarian meal (I honestly do request one when I book) but they did have red wine that tasted suspiciously like ribena - mmm.

My flight companion was of the chatty variety and for once I did not feign (ok, no feigning about it usually) sleep - I chatted for the entire flight. Seriously, talking to strangers appears to be what I do these days. A complete change from my London "if in doubt look at the floor" approach!

Anyway, much good chat about snake vodka, dubious meal choices and the woeful lack of vegetarian meals (admittedly he had not actually booked his...). I was almost disappointed when we landed.

Right, off to harass someone about my 'room'. I do hope you are tremendously well. Please send news as I am going to be sat in meeting rooms for the next few days so I believe it is my turn to live vicariously!

Po Toi O

Well, today we nearly did not arrive at our planned destination. A few mishaps along the way, including the loss of the details of where we were going to whilst en-route. Ahem. However all is well that ends well and after a mammoth journey (boat, walk, quick trip to see Dragon Boat Festival, metro x3, bus, walk) we arrived at Po Toi O. Truly worth the trek. Even better with the revised route we took home (far quicker).

A tiny fishing village it is absolutely stunning and possibly my favourite find so far. We went to eat (obviously, it's what I do) and this is literally a point at the live fish you want, eat it 15mins later kind of place. Delicious.

Macau - the Vegas of Asia!

Well, I still have a million things to tell you about Tokyo but time has been flying by, I landed back in HK Thursday (just) and free time has ceased to exist! The wonders that are the internet police have not made things easy either - grr!

Anyway, here I am and hello. It is NOT raining. This is tremendously exciting so I will type fast as there is a seafood restaurant on a beach I really should get to...

Yesterday we went on a day trip to Macau. Ferry, apologies, TURBOJet, across from HK to Macau in an hour. Slightly choppy weather = lots of vomiting passengers. Nice.

Anyway, we arrived stomachs intact and managed to fight our way through the hordes of people offering "tours" to hop on the bus to the centre of town. Under 30p for those of you tempted by the taxis (GBP20).

Macau is odd. Arriving at the Largo do Senado (main square) it was like being in Disneyland. Cobbled streets, colourful colonial buildings and no dirt or litter in sight. Also well over 35degrees and far less humid than HK. Step two (step one was the bus) was to throw on the factor 50!

A bit of a wander around Macau in the heat then followed. It is a beautiful place, Portugal in Asia. Then throw in a mix of Las Vegas as you spot the super casinos on the skyline. Enormous towering buildings, many direct copies of their Vegas namesake. Macau is a gamblers paradise.

We went for lunch (Portuguese of course) at Alfonso III. This took a bit of finding (I question my map skills, v poor that day) but was worth it. The staff were predominantly Portuguese-Chinese and were all having a very bad day (apparently there had been a bit of a party the night before). Lots of screaming and shouting. Six customers left before getting their food stating "we are customers, we expect customer service". Sounds harsh but the waitress did say (ok - shout) "I know you want me to take your order, just hold on!" and other such gems so you can see their point.

I am pleased we opted to be less demanding on the service front as the food, when it arrived, was wonderful! I thoroughly recommend a trip (Alfonso III, Rua Central). I had "fish with vegetables" which turned out to be a whole fish, swimming in a bowl of olive oil, covered in about four bulbs (yes, not cloves) of chopped, roasted garlic. Delicious! That will keep that vampires away!! (The garlic was the vegetables, and it covered the whole plate...)

Post lunch we cabbed it across to the Venetian casino. The web assures me it is the biggest casino in the World - it is pretty massive.

Strolling through the gambling floors we opted for drinking our cash rather than gambling it (bellini-tini anyone?) while people watching. It was truly ENORMOUS.

We rounded off the day with a trip to see Cirque du Solei, which I had never seen before but am a massive fan of such things so I sat, garlicky and spellbound, resisting the urge to snooze in the very comfortable seats.

Ferry home, late night noodles and bed. Yawn. Definitely a day trip worth doing but I'm not sure I could have stayed longer. Overall, a very odd place. But do go see it.

How do you eat a poached egg with chopsticks?

Seriously. How do you do it? This was the dilemma I was faced with at Tokyo airport early yesterday morning as I tucked into breakfast (number two). Not an easy task!

I made it back safely after a few (ok many) moments of concern about the tornado alert in HK and a pretty delayed arrival. Lots of passengers screaming as we landed as we went through (for "went" read "fell") pockets of air and strong winds.

Amber rain alert, which briefly turned to black (!), fortunately did not prevent the safe arrival of a good friend of mine. Hurrah! And she bought me mini cheddars, Hip Hip Hooray!

Only thing to do in receipt of such gifts was to take her somewhere nice, so we went to Hutong. Amazing views and absolutely wonderful food. (Please can more people visit so I have an excuse to go again!).

Dark walls, view of the bay, amazing service, brilliant company and a good old natter!

Tokyo - Shinjuku

Shinjuku metro station is a place it is easy to get lost in. The second largest commuter train station in the world, working out which exit you want to take is something of a challenge!

The neighbourhood is split into two distinct sides. The business district and the busier social and shopping area (with obligatory red light district).

We had a night time wander around Shinjuku, just getting to know the place a little (avoiding said red lights). I was given a flyer advertising for "hostesses". I remain unsure whether to be offended or flattered. Very good rates of pay though!

Shinjuku was exactly like my stereotypical vision of Tokyo. Tall buildings, crowds and a lot of neon! I recommend a late night wander, avoid the obvious red light area as this is less safe than most areas late at night (although Tokyo is pretty safe generally!)

In Shinjuku I was given the very good tip of heading to department stores to eat. The all have restaurants, generally on the upper floors, which provide good but reasonably priced food. Top tip! Basements also often provide good takeaway lunch options.

Tokyo - Kagurazuka

Kagurazka is one of Tokyo's old neighbourhoods, previously an area known for its Geisha culture and home today to some of the older, more traditional Japanese homes.

When I visited preparations were underway for the Summer Festival so the streets were strung with beautiful red and white lanterns and the temple had plenty of sake offerings.

It really is a beautiful area and the houses and gardens are wonderfully intricate. Low wooden buildings with sliding doors and bamboo screens.

I went back for dinner a couple of nights later to a traditional Japanese restaurant. It was in an old house, tatami mats on the floor and the very low individual 'tables' for you to eat from while sat at the floor. A wonderfully atmospheric evening.

It's difficult to describe it fully without pictures (which I will upload later) but I would recommend a visit and a wander.

You can walk there from Ichigaya, as we did, and see people fishing under the bridges.

Tokyo - Roppongi

Roppongi, to me at least, is best described as the Leicester Square of Tokyo. It has it all. Expensive restaurants, seedy bars and the all-important tourist attractions (wax museum anyone?). Previously a 'den of sin' (as described by the ever-reliable, albeit poorly written, guidebook) there has been substantial investment and it is increasingly expensive with hotels such as the Grand Hyatt and the large Roppongi Hills building - as previously occupied by Lehmans - considered a key landmark. A well known area, in terms of its slightly seedy reputation, and one I wouldn't recommend you rush to, although the new buildings and view from the tower are worth a trip the nightlife leaves a lot to be desired.

Anyway, Roppongi has it highs and it's lows. I visited it on three separate occasions.

1. For a very expensive dinner at Roka Roka. The sushi bar in the Grand Hyatt this was a truly outstanding experience. The most delicious sushi I have ever tried, prepared in front of you by skilled sushi chefs. Chefs seen by the public have to have trained for a minimum of 10 years and can earn as much as an investment banker! I know which career I'd rather have. Each chef has his own sushi knife, which itself costs more than a (very nice) car. The prices reflect this but the experience was magical and I would thoroughly recommend it. Yum!

2. As a tourist to visit the Tokyo Tower, which I've talked about earlier. Note to all, do not go with the Hato bus tour. 10minutes to get up the tower, 10 mins for pictures then down again. A little rushed!

3. On the weekend, searching for seedy (ok, nice) bars. Seedy appears to be the available option. A key pickup spot for tourists and ex pats alike. Not an experience I'd wish to repeat but one you can recreate for yourself by heading to your nearest walkabout - or any bar in Leicester Square. Get the picture?

Tales of Tokyo contunie

Hello. Well, I have decided that if I have even half a chance of describing Tokyo I'm going to have to split it down into each of the places I have visited and describe them individually. Aren't you lucky.

Well, hold that thought as I also think this will be a little time consuming and in ever-busy Tokyo time does not appear to be something I have a lot of. Most unusual. So you'll have to wait for those little rays of sunshine to make their way onto your life.

Tonight I am off for dinner and drinks with a lovely woman I met through Tokyo Free Guides. Tokyo Free Guides is possibly the best invention, ever. In the guide sense anyway. Basically you can book a guide, who will show you around the city, their time is free you pay for meals, train fares, admission fees etc. It is a brilliant system! Why is it only in Tokyo?? Anyway, we had a great time and are off out again this evening. Hurrah!

Am starting to feel like a slightly-less-inept traveller. I now have three 'oyster' cards (being oyster, octopus and penguin!). I have discovered new an unusual ways to meet people overseas without resorting to dubious online chat rooms or hanging around near the Love Hotels (more about that later). And I have a hat.

Right, must dash. Busy, busy.

A bit like Alice in Wonderland

WARNING: parts of this post are disturbing and unsuitable reading for a whole range of people etc. Read on at your own risk. If for any reason you are not disturbed, you should probably have a think about that, as you really should be.

Yesterday I had a fun filled day in Tokyo which I will not cover in its entirety as I am quite hungry and keen to get to the hotel restaurant for breakfast - they do blueberry pancakes with maple syrup. Need I say more.

I started the day with the aforementioned bus tour (nearly GBP50 for a half day - it's not cheap here!). This started with a trip up Tokyo Tower, the TV tower with a viewing platform at 150 metres, so as soon as I am back to HK I'll upload the pictures. The views were amazing. If you're not familiar with the layout of Tokyo pull up a google* map now. (*Other service providers are available).

The city is circular with the centre being the Emperors palace, which covers 250 acres. The palace itself is surrounded by waterways and parks making Tokyo very green. Interestingly the city spreads out in circles around this (really, you do need to be looking at a map for this to make sense).

There are few tall buildings due to the frequent earthquakes. A combination of these and WWII means there are few old buildings, although I have now been to one of the oldest neighbourhoods which till has a few traditional old-style Japanese houses. They are as beautiful and intricate as you would expect.

After Tokyo Tower we went to the gates of the Imperial Palace (you cannot go in) and then onto Asakusa for the Senso-ji Temple (a beautiful shrine) and Nakamise Street (tourist shopping hell...).

It was interesting to see but I would not recommend a bus tour as you get little time at each place and, having now mastered (ish) the subway, this is a better way to get around.

I opted for the bus drop off at Akihabara, a centre of electronics and anime. There is no electrical item you cannot buy here. Software, hardware, probably the i-phone 400 or its equivalent. This is where new technology in everything from phones, cameras, computers, a talking hello kitty, robotic pets and sushi shaped pen drives are displayed, showcased and tested. Officially electro-geeks paradise.

It is also famed for its "Maid Cafes'. The guidebook advises that these are harmless and a way for people to live out their liking for anime (cartoons). I beg to differ and I have since been assured that (a) I should not have gone; and (b) there definitely is a sexual undertone to Maid Cafes.

So, to explain. Maid Cafes are typically staffed by schoolgirls (of the 16+ first job type rather than junior school, but still). The staff (Maids) wear maid outfits, often with a cartoon theme (so pink, heart shaped bags, bunny ears or similar). The cafes do not serve alcohol, but serve basic lunch, coffee and cakes.

As you arrive the Maids greet you with "hello Master". Are you starting to gt the picture? However, due to it being cartoon focused it is a little like Hello Kitty on speed. They are very girly and giggly and when your food arrives you go through a little routine together (making your hand into hearts) and say "make delicious" a lot - about your food. You may also end up with hearts drawn on your food in ketchup (make delicious!).

You can have your food here and the Maids will talk to you, photos are forbidden but you can pay to have your picture taken with your favourite Maid (no, I didn't do this).

Before I continue can I just check that you are alarmed at this point? If you think this sounds interesting in a tourist / odd way, fine, if this strikes you as a good way to get your kicks please get off my blog now, you're making me feel uncomfortable. Thanks.

So I was there, having read the guide book thinking, hmm this makes me feel very awkward but the book says its all ok so maybe I'm just not being open minded.

Having now checked with my tour guide from that afternoon (more about that later) I should have been awkward. She was horrified I had been. It is a place men ("who are unable to have relationships") go to who like that kind of thing... (I refer you back to young girls dressed as maids).

This did fit entirely with one customer at the cafe I went to (there were also tourists a plenty). Fat (check), sweating (check), carrying Hello Kitty stickers??? (check). He had with him albums and albums of all the photos he had had taken with the Maids and was pouring over them (the photos) whilst handing out said stickers (you remember what your parents said about strangers and sweets right?).

The Maids themselves don't directly do anything other than serve food and chat. But...

Anyway I'll stop here, as you probably get the picture. I don't want you to go away thinking that this is what Tokyo is all about, it's not and I'll wax lyrical about all the 'good' stuff later. But it does certainly have a seedy underside.

There is a population crisis here with fewer and fewer children being born. Young women are independent and have their own jobs, houses etc but it remains unacceptable to live with someone or have a child out of wedlock. Men and women socialise separately and I am told it makes it very difficult to meet anyone. Childcare is expensive and it is not possible for women to have children and continue to work, so may are either choosing not to have children, or simply find it too difficult to meet someone to do so.

If you want a life with minimal human interaction you can buy anything you want out of vending machines, including fresh cut flowers (which would be handy for a few of you I know...to be clear, the easy access to flowers, not the lack of human interaction).

Right, on that happy note I'll end as I would like non-vending machine pancakes. If I get a wriggle on I'll be off to the old City. If not, I'll be shopping ;)

04:15 alarm call and sashimi for breakfast

Well good morning campers. Today I awoke to the tail end of sunset over Tokyo which has to be up there on my list of top 5 ways to start a day. Stunning views, being on the 35th floor of my hotel with a window in place of a wall probably helps...

So, 04:30 I set off to to Tsukiji Fish Market. The centre of Tokyo fish trading, the guidebook advises that US$ 15.5m of fish is sold here daily! That is a lot of fish.

The main attraction is the tuna market, starting at 4.30am each morning. Entrance to the public is not generally permitted although I discovered (sadly too late) you can apply for a viewing gallery permit. Number are very restricted though.

Photographs are at best frowned upon, and in certain areas are prohibited, so you will have to try and imagine it for yourself. I'll do my best to describe it.

First think semi-darkness, noise, crowded, strong smells, underlying chatter and whistles being blown for reasons I am unable to explain. There is a feeling of excitement, a heightened version of the feeling you get as you set up for a car boot sale and wait for the first shoppers to arrive.

Those of you familiar with markets think of the New Covent Garden market, the food section rather than the flower market. The outskirts of the market are covered, high roofed areas (think Smithfields). Within these are rows and rows of HGVs (that's lorries) - think back to queuing for the ferry with your parents at Newhaven / Dover for those family holidays to France.

The floor is covered with pallets and, whilst there are official 'walkways' there are so many people whizzing backwards and forwards on mini electric forklifts it is certainly pedestrian - beware! As I entered I acknowledged to myself that today was a day I would need to accept the strange looks as jeans, trainers, pashmina and mulberry handbag are possibly not the outfit combination of choice for a seasoned fish trader. Again, wellies would have been a good thing to pack. For the thousandth time sine I left the UK I wished they were not safely stored in my mothers loft just right now...

Anyway, I digress. You're in a high ceilinged covered market area, it is 04:45 and you are dodging electric forklifts and wooden pallets. You arrive at the end of this area and cross over into the outer market. Much smaller, row upon row of tiny stalls. Here are the sushi and sashimi restaurants, tiny crammed places that open at 5am and are packed, despite serving what appears to be a slightly unusual breakfast of choice. There are also the stalls selling everything you could ever associate with making and serving sushi. All the pickles condiments, cooking implements and knives, alongside the plates and assortment of tiny bowls and plates. Everything you could every need, and then a bit more.

Walking though you enter the trading area. Here, still covered, there are rows and rows of stalls, small white lanterns strung between them, a vast array of polystyrene boxes and people unpacking every type of seafood you have ever seen, and then some! It is early so the stalls are not fully set up, the focus is on unpacking, setting up the display, making tea and yet more electric forklifts!

It is a vast area, if I knew how big a football pitch was I'd compare sizes, but I don't. So I'd say it was 8x the size of my impression of the size of a football field. So big.

There is masses of noise, electric saws are used by some traders to cut the fish! Everyone is chatting and if there was ever a scene to describe 'bustle', this is it. You can tell the traders, who stride about with a clear sense of importance. It may have been my imagination but I am convinced they had the shiniest wellingtons. Fish and seafood are sold in every imaginable form, alive, fresh, frozen, pickled, you name it!

An important part of the market is Namiyoke-jonja, the Shinto shrine where people come to pray before work. Sadly under renovation currently, you can still see the two enormous carved lion heads, used in the dance ceremony. Incredible. What I liked most is that this is an area people use. There were two women feeding stray cats on scraps of the fish and a market trader paying his respects.

I finished my exploration with a trip to one of the tiny sushi restaurants. More like a cafe they are equipped to deal with non-Japanese speakers, and you order by pointing at the picture you like the look of. I opted for tuna and salmon sashimi. Served simply on a bed of rice, with pickles, iced coffee and a miso soup. Delicious.

If you're here, it is well worth the early start.

I 'heart' TOKYO

Dear Tokyo.

I think I'm in love. Despite having spent hardly any time with you, and the majority of it in meetings, I feel we were destined to be together. What can I say, it's the tempura lunches served at low tables, the sushi prepared in front of you, the unknown quantity of money I spent at Winged Wheel due to not having grasped the exchange rate yet. I now think it is best I do not attempt to grasp it...

The glass of champagne with dinner may have turned my head, and I know it's early, but I really think we could have something. We may not be able to communicate properly but I think, with time, I could learn how your "map" system works. I can't promise to ever understand the metro but everyone has to compromise somewhere. I think we can meet halfway, probably in a taxi.

For you I will get up at 4am for the fish market. Eschew my dislike of buses and go on a morning tour of the City, bus-top style. Go to a 4 hour theatre production I know I cannot begin to hope to understand but I will know that it has an important message. It does not matter I do not know what that message is.

We have such a short time together, but let's make it special...

Hello from Tokyo!

Well, slight deviation from my usual HK chat as I am currently on a plane to Tokyo. Fear not those of a safety-conscious nature, I'm in airplanemode.

This is also a test of whether the email-blogging system I 'setup' (somewhat in haste) actually works. We shall see. If you are reading this, then it did. Hurrah etc.

I am surrounded by a multitude of papers, street and tube maps, guide books and travel documents. Chaos is an appropriate description and I am starting to feel slightly anxious about arriving in a city I've never been to before, where the address system is, at best, confusing. No street names in addresses, or on maps. Hmmm. Still, plane, train, tube, walk. Keep those fingers crossed, how hard can it be? Well, I'll let you know. Brilliantly I am booked into a hotel that is featured in neither of the two guide books I hastily purchased.

However, anxiety has to be put aside for the excitement factor. Tokyo, home of sushi, sumo and stationery (I get to actually go to Winged Wheel!?). Are there customs restrictions on paper products?

Despite a somewhat packed work schedule (I was never going to be sent here for fun) I'm hoping to fit in a few trips and treats and have been eagerly reading about 5am fish markets (sushi for breakfast - can't be any odder than pizza), hot tubs and theatre. Those of you that have been here before please do email across tips!

Right, slight travel update. I have now made it through passport control(fingerprints and photo now on file) and customs (I am not carrying illegal materials). Phew. The guidebook talks through the restrictions on some illegal material, which made me giggle but possibly can't be covered on work email.

You also have your temperature taken as part of the health controls. Quite scary! The form filling, fingerprinting and explanation of my visit did make me think I probably ought to have a copy of my passport, bank/card details etc stored somewhere rather than total reliance on never losing my handbag.Still, a little too late for that at this point...

I was slightly surprised to see that on landing people were running to security and customs, dragging bags and small children behind them.Somewhat baffled (did they just really like being fingerprinted and had they thought through the running vs temperature scan) and concerned I was about to spend the remainder of my week being jostled, it appears there was good reason for this behaviour...

My careful (albeit frantic) planning for my method of reaching the hotel was somewhat scuppered post baggage reclaim due to the trains not running(too late) and the hotel shuttle not running (too late). Hence the running.I am not a relaxed business traveller, I am a poorly-informed business traveller. Damn. There goes my cool, collected airport approach. Tokyo fact1: early flights are better. Although in fairness I had a grand total of two hours notice so earlier not really possible today.

Anyway, I am now on an airport limousine (that would be a coach) to the centre of Tokyo. Sadly I am unable to be more specific as to the precise location I will eventually reach. I also have a piece of paper with my hotel name written in Japanese so I can take a cab from 'the centre' -kindly provided by a woman at the bus desk who recognises a person with little to no clue about Tokyo when she sees one.

The guidebook is very anti the general shuttle, claiming it takes hours.However, I am hopeful it will be an opportunity to see 'Tokyo by night'.The power of positive thinking outweighs the dislike of coach trips. So far I can see motorway. Initial observation is it is not materially different to other motorways I have been on. So there you go, Tokyo fact 2: motorways do not appear different.

I remain hopeful that 'hours' is actually not that long, it is fairly late and I am slightly concerned about whether my hotel will actually be open.Surely it must be. Right?

Ps - it is raining....

UPDATE:- Email-blogging did not work and this is being posted by the power of the hotel business centre which I have popped into even before seeing my room!Please delete "Hurrah etc" from your earlier reading of this.
- The coach took 1 hour
- Some confusion and a taxi, 20 minutes later I arrived at the hotel. More about that later!!

Zuma

Excitingly a friend was in town last night so, despite as was pointed out to me "plum sake bellinis being a bit aggressive for a Monday night", we met in Zuma.

Being honest the website talks up the interior slightly more than it possibly should. However the 6th floor bar is officially bigger than my entire flat (yes, we checked) and pretty cool. It's all frosted glass and dark lighting. They also do a mean plum sake bellini. I'll warn you now, it's sweet.

Down the famed staircase to the restaurant and, despite the now almost intolerable heat, we opted to sit on the Terrace, which was wonderful until a man with the largest cigar I have genuinely ever seen, came and sat at the table upwind from us. Less than ideal but fortunately we were on dessert by this point (a trio of chocolate pudding, banana cake and a mango and coconut mousse, served with lychee ice cream). We opted for the cheaper of two tasting menus and food was served with incredible speed. At one point we had three courses on the table! I'm still not sure if this was intentional, if we were the slowest eaters they had ever met or if they were just overly efficient / keen to empty the restaurant and go home on a Monday night. Whichever the case the food was delicious. Yum.

I do now need a couple of days of salads. HUGE amounts of food recently. Yum.

Stats

As I've now been here just over a month (how time flies) I thought you may be interested to know who else is reading this blog with you. Since 8 June it has been visited 871 times by 219 different computers.

It has been read from Canada, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Russia, UK, USA and 'other' (no, I have no idea either).

Mondays is the day it is most frequently read, (22.71% of hits on a Monday) with Saturdays the least likely day for a visit (7.68%).

So there you go. Thanks for reading!

Currently NOT raining, hurrah etc!

Well hello. Sunday night already. How did that happen? It is HOT HOT HOT here in Honkers. The pilot called it 'honkers' as I landed so I feel it is an acceptable term - even if you did all stop me calling the blog "bonkers in honkers". Admittedly antics detailed on here to date would probably not merit such a title. I feel had I opted for this it would need me to amuse you with tales of eating jelly made from frogs genitalia (you genuinely can buy this as a dessert, it is a delicacy) and drinking yards of larger through beer-bongs. To date, I have done neither.

I did today go for Sunday brunch at the W hotel. A far more suitable activity. Oh yes. It is a huge "Aussie-style" buffet (I do not know what "Aussie style" is, but the signs assured me it was this). Our group was a mix of Chinese, English, German, Indian and Polish. Fortunately they still let us in. Phew.

Free flowing champagne (Perrier Jouet) was the main attraction (no champagne-bong provided but the service was excellent) alongside wagu beef (the massaged cow variety) and jelly sweets. You can guess the two areas I focused my attention on.

I have to admit the food was a let down, and ridiculously overpriced but, we were at the W, sat by the window, with harbour views. It was to be expected. I am slowly getting used to the enormous range in cost of living here. I can buy dinner for GBP1 or GBP100 and that does not include the top end places. Madness.

I then went for a stroll round the shops. Can I just point out that despite being liberally dosed up with champers, in full possession of my credit card and with this being the last day of the sales I did not buy a single item. Even going to Lanvin, Pringle, Prada, Mulberry and a host of other shops selling beautiful items with 70% off... Now THAT is will power. If only I could be as dedicated to my 'running' schedule. The planned 'long run' did not seem the thing to do when I made it home. I decided it may be bad for me after all the fizz. I wouldn't want to damage my health now, would I!

Junks and pizza

The title really should put pizza first as it appears to have become a bit of a focus to my time here. Wednesday night, post Peak walk, we went to a cafe for a bite to eat. We must have looked a bit alarming as it was pretty hot on the walk up and we were still in our gym gear... Anyway, we ordered and when talking about a "small" pizza the waitress made a shape with her hands, about the size of a cup. I instantly upgraded to 'medium' and was wondering if the large was actually the best approach.

The pizza arrives. ENORMOUS. Possibly the biggest pizza ever. Square so difficult to do a size comparison with my favourite-ever, biggest-ever pizza, but we are talking big here. And pretty delicious. Yum. I did not even manage half so it was boxed up and formed meals for a couple of days after. (How wrong is it to eat pizza for breakfast?)

Since then I have been ordering pizza at every available opportunity. Yum, scrum. I really am having a carb based month!

Anyway, last night was drinks (and pizza). Really nice sitting outside with a glass (ok bottle,s) of wine, watching the world go by.

Today was junkaliciousness. That was genuinely its title. It is a good one. 30ish people + junk + drinks + food + sun + floaties. Cue a day out on the boat, bit of a swim, generally relaxing in the sun. Superb. I literally smothered myself head to foot in factor 50 (I could not have looked paler) which means I now have the benefit of no sunburn. Other than on my head. I do really need a hat!

We left at a leisurely hour this morning and took a couple of hours to head in the direction of Sai Kung. This is in the new territories (on a clear day you can see China). We moored (docked? downed anchor?) in a nice spot. Stunning.

The pictures are of the trip. Ace. If you look carefully you can spot the buildings of Hong Kong as we left the Island behind us.

I met a few people who sail here who have advised me that if I go to the yacht club on a Saturday morning before noon and leave my name and number on a blackboard, someone will call me if there is a space to crew that day. I am assured this is all above board so whilst it sounds very dubious indeed, I think I will give it a go. It's only two months I can get cranks calls for, right?

Am all sleepy from the sun now. Lazy night in it is. Zzzzz.

Harbour trip

Tonight the 'amazing vista' theme continues with a trip around the harbour on a junk. Please see earlier posts for 'junk' description...

It was a night with the IWIRC (can you guess what that stands for - google is cheating) so food, wine, and a yacht. Just another Thursday night in HK.

Again the pictures do not begin to do the views justice, for once the weather was good and the skies clear(er than normal). Beautiful. Please note obligatory photo of the mother-ship...

Mum - be excited. I've been promised the 'junk' for a night when you are here! Start planning your "boating" outfit...

Night Hike

Well blogettes, apologies for the lack of recent posts. After spending the weekend at home feeling poorly, Monday and Tuesday did not offer much more by way of excitement (unless accounting policy gets you excited). If it does, please do not tell me.

I did, however, discover a wonderful Italian deli which makes the best homemade aubergine parmigiana I've ever had. Definite comfort food. The Italian theme continued with a trip to Pecatto, Elgin Street. Yum. Something about pasta just makes me feel I must get better soon!

Fortunately Wednesday arrived and with it much less nausea. This was a good thing as tonight was Night Hike night. Walking up to the top of the Peak. It is the highest mountain in Hong Kong, with an altitude of 552m. As you know I've been there before. By tram.

It was good fun though, just enough lights that we didn't totally regret taking a torch, and the views were certainly worth it. Here are a couple of pictures from half way up, I can assure you the actual view was a million times better.

Hope all well!

Home comforts

Well, I've spent pretty much the entire weekend either reading Private Eye (No. 1264, loving the cartoon bottom LHS p15) or watching West Wing. Am feeling much better, unless I move. This could be problematic on Monday as I'm pretty sure that, even thought I have my very own desk, bin and name place, lying on my desk will not be taken well. Maybe I'll just move v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y.

I have resorted to ultra-cautious and have even cooked my dinner of 'rice + rice' in mineral water (this could be an expensive fad, the mineral water that is, rather than the rice). Overall I'm very much hoping for a speedy return to full health.

The benefit of an afternoon in did mean I got to catch up with lots of people through the marvel that is skype. Hurrah for skype. How does it work, nobody knows. But it does. Other than when the Internet connection breaks up, which is about every five minutes, but other than that its ok. Good.

So, lovely to hear your news and I'm pleased all is well in the UK. Given the prevalence of pro-democracy demonstration here I'm disappointed to note there have not been similar Cameron/Clegg poster-based disruptions but then you can't have everything. With Timesonline going to pay-per-view I am left with BBC news, which a week or so ago was reporting on a youth throwing a dog at a hells angel, in Germany. The 'chairs are bad for your back' article has been in the top 10 most read for days! Slow news week? My favourite headline today is "Schools 'recycle' poor teachers". This is quite a misleading headline, they do not actually make teachers into pencils or other "I used to be a teacher" based products. Just so you know.

Right, rice + rice it is for me, then bed. Fingers crossed for a dry Monday!

Day to day

So on Thursday after the trip to the Tin Hau Temple, I walked up through Victoria Park to the centre of Causeway Bay. One of Hong Kong's key shopping areas.

It was very strange being in the park, looking out at row after row of skyscrapers. Quite surreal. Despite the blazing heat (we have temporary respite from the rain) there were lots of people making use of the park's jogging track. I was both pleased and disappointed to have discovered it. On the plus side I now know of somewhere other than the treadmill to go. Ditto for the downside!

There were a lot of adverts for the "Masters Tennis" which appeared to be in full swing. Is this some kind of Wimbledon equivalent? Can someone who knows anything about tennis let me know if I wandered through a key sporting event?

Causeway Bay was packed due to a demonstration about democracy, or lack of it. I initially thought it was something to do with trade terms as there were a lot of inflatable bananas being waved. If anyone is able to make the connection I'd welcome your thoughts.

I was in Causeway Bay deliberately to check out a vegetarian restaurant that the guidebook recommended, prior to the arrival of visitors who may need to know about such things. Anyway, it appears to have closed so I went to one of the many Indonesian restaurants, just off Sugar Street. The food was delicious, however since this point I have been unwell (yes, we're on Saturday afternoon now). So I don't think I'll be going back!

Friday it was back to work and a trip to a congee restaurant with assurances this would cure my stomach. Sadly it didn't work but it was delicious and certainly provided brief respite. Congee is a rice porridge, and is meant to be excellent when you are unwell as it is very easy to digest.

Friday night was the leaving party for the current head of the department I am working in. Given my somewhat minimal social life I decided to go along and eat the enormous meal, despite said illness. The restaurant was called Hunan Garden, and (unsurprisingly) specialises in food from the Hunan province of China. I wasn't up to my usual eating standards but the food really was delicious. Specialities included fish crusted with beans and winter melon soup (which you can only get in Summer).

I arrived at the restaurant with a number of colleagues and sat at their table only to be told I had to move as I wasn't allowed to sit with them. Being "management" I had to sit at the management table. Which at that point was empty! Whilst this is the correct thing culturally I felt this was a real shame as I had been quite happily swapping recipes! I say "swapping", I mean I was being told recipes. I'm looking forward to the dim sum dinner party when I get back - if I can master it... Which is questionable!

Today I am still feeling distinctly unwell so I went to but the ingredients for congee. However, on arrival at the supermarket I had a sudden and unexpected craving for all things Western and ended up with a shopping trolley full of pasta, sacla olive and tomato stir through, seriously strong cheddar, boursin and jacobs cream crackers! I do not wish to tell you how much this cost, particularly as all the local products are so cheap! I also feel slightly guilty, as if I've cheated on my trip. I've pretty much stuck to traditional food so far, but sometimes a cream cracker is the only thing you want to eat.

The supermarket is amazing. It appears to contain the key brands from around the world and a few oddities with it! At the moment there is an American food promotion so you can buy all kinds of crackers with sesame street characters on them. You can get Hello Kitty soy sauce, pasta, olive oil etc and they even stock Waitrose tea bags! (Which surely must have fallen off the back of a lorry, I didn't think Waitrose sold their products elsewhere?). Anyway, I could spend days there looking at the things there are to buy.

The supermarket is much more sterile than the traditional wet markets but the fish counter still has the fish live, swimming in tanks for you to choose from. All the prawns and shellfish are also alive, even when first wrapped into plastic containers! Shopping for the squeamish it is not (and if this makes you squeamish never, ever go to a wet market). There are no concerns about whether your food is fresh here! It is very uncommon to buy frozen meat in Hong Kong so the frozen area predominantly stocks ice cream. Which, on this occasion, I resisted.

The hot weather now continues and it is too hot to sit outside even in the shade. So, I have taken myself to the reading room and discovered a massage chair. I have a copy of Private Eye, I'll be here a while....

Tin Hau Temple

1 July is Hong Kong SAR Establishment Day, and a public holiday! (There are 19 public holidays here).





I took the MTR across to Tin Hau, to see the Tin Hau temple. This is thought to have been originally built in the early 18th Century by the Tai family. At this time it had a harbour front location, which is no longer there due to land reclamation.

Tin Hau is the Queen of Heaven and guardian of all those connected to the sea.





It it truly amazing inside. It is predominantly black and red, with flashes of gold in statues and carvings. Huge spiral incense burners hang from the ceiling, these burn for 30 days and are absolutely incredible.

Only the staff were there when I visited, giving the place a calm, tranquil feeling, the only noise being the quiet sweeping sound of the ash being swept continually as it falls from the coils of incense.



Parts of the temple have been rebuilt over the years but the bell (pictured) is thought to be the original temple bell which was cast in 1747.

The Temple continues today to be managed by the Tai family, but was declared a historical building in 1962.

The staff were kind enough to let me take a few pictures, but these do not do it justice.