Well, this will be my last blog post. I am sat in my flat, bags full to the brim and mountains of stuff without a bag. Never good. I have a feeling it is too late to buy another suitcase and I am certain my baggage allowance does not cover it.
Tomorrow is my last day in the HK office. I then fly to Japan for a week before coming back to HK for a night and then flying home to London. It will have been four months. Feels like forever and mere minutes all at the same time.
I can't believe how much I have missed while I have been away. Five babies, two weddings, a moving-in, multiple 30ths and other birthdays.
In place of this I have seen and learnt quite a lot! I have been to HK (clearly), Japan, Kuala Lumpar, Bali, Australia and Macau. My passport actually has stamps in in these days (EU really should have kept them). I have travel cards, maps and many pots with left over currency in. I've seen old friends and met new friends. I've learnt chopstick etiquette and eaten all kinds of oddities. I have also put on over a stone and my jeans currently do not do up. On reviewing prior posts this is not that much of a shock. Plan A for the UK is exercise and healthy eating ;)
Once I've found a flat that is...
This week I have actually been getting into the swing of HK (I still have a headache/hangover from the rugby last night...) I will miss it here. But I'm pretty sure I'm not gone forever. It is certainly on the list of places to return to. Not least as I never made it to the three star Chinese restaurant at the Four Seasons...
Thank you all for your comments / emails and skype calls. I apologise for the fact you tend to catch me with a face mask on looking like some kind of swamp creature. Where would we be without video con calls.
I land in the UK 2 October and I look forward to catching up. I cannot wait for cups of tea with cold milk, and cheese, and pubs (not bars), and ribena....
See you soon x
Thursday 23 September 2010
Monday 20 September 2010
T3
Whilst away on holiday I appear to have forgotten all the HK living basics. An example of this. Yesterday morning I left the house to go to work and did not take my umbrella.
By the time I came to leave the office some 12+ hours later we were at Typhoon Alert Level 3. Yes, that does involve rain. Quite a lot of it. Clearly this much rain means there are minimal-to-zero available taxis, so I walked (it is warm rain after all).
I was mildly alarmed that a number of the shops I went past had sandbagged the outside of their buildings. I've not seen that before!
This morning T3 (that's the alert) remains in force. Oh, and we also have a landslide warning. I'm not sure that my main focus should be that I am amused this has been named 'Tropical Depression Fanapani'. Brolly today me thinks!
By the time I came to leave the office some 12+ hours later we were at Typhoon Alert Level 3. Yes, that does involve rain. Quite a lot of it. Clearly this much rain means there are minimal-to-zero available taxis, so I walked (it is warm rain after all).
I was mildly alarmed that a number of the shops I went past had sandbagged the outside of their buildings. I've not seen that before!
This morning T3 (that's the alert) remains in force. Oh, and we also have a landslide warning. I'm not sure that my main focus should be that I am amused this has been named 'Tropical Depression Fanapani'. Brolly today me thinks!
Sunday 19 September 2010
More Sydney
I have been a bit neglectful of late but am now back on my sofa in honkers eating chocolate (only thing in the fridge other than a bottle of soy sauce). Health kick starts tomorrow. Maybe.
So, what did I do in Sydney?
Well, we went to the Opera House to See Sutra. A truly amazing dance performance involving choreography by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, design by Anthony Gormley and the Shaolin monks. It is touring and well worth a visit (and not just as the choreographers surname contains all five vowels). Standing ovation from the crowd - always a favourite theatre moment of mine.
I took the ferry to Manly to eat chips and watch the surfers. A seagull snatched a chip from my fork as it was half in my mouth! I then understood why someone had shouted at some tourists for feeding the seagulls only moments earlier.
I had a domestic goddess on a healthkick moment and cooked a HUGE salad for us (it had roasted pumpkin (that is butternut squash for those of you not living in Oz) - hence the 'cooked' reference. However, all healthy salad goodness very much negated by the level of red wine and port consumed over the week.
The best sightseeing part was the Bonza Bike tour which took you all around Sydney.
Much PawPaw ointment was purchased and I was also wooed into getting Manuka honey. Supposedly this cures all ills. I'm waiting patiently for it to kill off my cough. As of tomorrow it will be a trip to the pharmacy and the honey can compete with the antibiotics to see who cures me first. I'm not going to play favourites.
HK is as boiling as ever and following the same theme as the last three months I have returned to a Tropical Cyclone warning. My money is on this kicking off either Tuesday night (so no peak hike) or just as I catch my flight to Tokyo on Saturday (mmm, turbulence).
Subject to plans not changing this really is my last week here, I even have a check out form to complete for the flat. The feedback form does not however have a question asking you to rate the level of mental trauma suffered from living in such a confined space. Maybe I'll leave that as additional feedback.
Right ho. Early night for me as doing a full day of work is going to be a bit of a shock to the system tomorrow!
So, what did I do in Sydney?
Well, we went to the Opera House to See Sutra. A truly amazing dance performance involving choreography by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, design by Anthony Gormley and the Shaolin monks. It is touring and well worth a visit (and not just as the choreographers surname contains all five vowels). Standing ovation from the crowd - always a favourite theatre moment of mine.
I took the ferry to Manly to eat chips and watch the surfers. A seagull snatched a chip from my fork as it was half in my mouth! I then understood why someone had shouted at some tourists for feeding the seagulls only moments earlier.
I had a domestic goddess on a healthkick moment and cooked a HUGE salad for us (it had roasted pumpkin (that is butternut squash for those of you not living in Oz) - hence the 'cooked' reference. However, all healthy salad goodness very much negated by the level of red wine and port consumed over the week.
The best sightseeing part was the Bonza Bike tour which took you all around Sydney.
Much PawPaw ointment was purchased and I was also wooed into getting Manuka honey. Supposedly this cures all ills. I'm waiting patiently for it to kill off my cough. As of tomorrow it will be a trip to the pharmacy and the honey can compete with the antibiotics to see who cures me first. I'm not going to play favourites.
HK is as boiling as ever and following the same theme as the last three months I have returned to a Tropical Cyclone warning. My money is on this kicking off either Tuesday night (so no peak hike) or just as I catch my flight to Tokyo on Saturday (mmm, turbulence).
Subject to plans not changing this really is my last week here, I even have a check out form to complete for the flat. The feedback form does not however have a question asking you to rate the level of mental trauma suffered from living in such a confined space. Maybe I'll leave that as additional feedback.
Right ho. Early night for me as doing a full day of work is going to be a bit of a shock to the system tomorrow!
Wednesday 15 September 2010
Sydneysider
Sydney. It's got an Opera House.
Ta da....
Post Blue Mountains the plan was to head to the beaches. But it rained. And rained. And rained.
Braving the rain on Tuesday night we went out for some utterly delicious sushi at the somewhat incongruously named "Monkey Magic", in Surrey Hills. However, despite the name and the unexciting looking menu, the food was delicious. Go there and order the soft shell crab roll. Delicious. Sadly, the cocktail bartender was off sick so no pina coladas available, but the rain was not going to stop me in my pursuit of coconut based drinks with unnervingly large toppings. No Siree.
First stop, the Winery. Pretty surroundings, ultra stuck up staff. Needless to say pina coladas were not an option. The also are one of those places that when you order a glass of champagne, they think it is ok to mix the cloudy dregs of the end of one bottle, with the newly opened bottle. (FYI, it is not ok).
Next stop, Bentleys. Again, pretty surroundings and ultra ultra stuck up staff. However, so stuck up they wish to take on the challenge of making a pina colada - as our bartender makes "the best pina coladas in Sydney". Drinks arrived. Hmmm, when did a pina colada taste of lemon juice and hurt to drink? However, I sipped politely. We gave up for the night.
Wednesday (that would be yesterday) I had a very unproductive day sightseeing wise. Spent time in a lawyers office reading papers (exciting) but then had a wander around Circular Quay and the Rocks, and walked over that bridge. Quite a quick walk, taking far less time than the advised 75 minutes. About 20 to be precise. So, with a bit of time to kill I wandered around and found a second hand bookstore that had sofas and sold cups of tea and biscuits. Heaven - surely?
In the time it took for me to purchase my Moroccan Mint tea, I discovered the owner of the bookstore also owned a holiday company and a bike hire service. Warning Sign One was when I sensed her disappointment that I had not booked any of my holiday with her; that I had stayed in a Janet de Neefe hotel in Bali (she is organising a separate writers tour...long story, will make sense to some); and that I had just booked on a bike tour with another Sydney company (despite not offering bike tours). Still, I smiled, looked cheerful and took my tea and (stale) biscuits to settle in for a bit of a read.
Warning Sign Two was that the woman in the comfy chair opposite me was reading "The Ascendant, Your Karmic Doorway". That would be reading aloud. Albeit a stage 'whisper' but in quite an excited tone. My favourite part was when she exclaimed 'Oh, today IS Wednesday' as though discovering gold.
Warning Sign Three was the fact a very battered second hand book costs AUD12, when new it was AUD14.95. Hmm, maybe my 'making friends' strategy of asking for a book recommendation was misplaced.
So I sipped my tea (fast), left the stale biscuits and headed on my way smiling and promising to 'have a think' about the book...
Back across the bridge on the train this time (beautiful sunset) and to meet K in the Blu Bar at the top of the Shangri La for beautiful panoramic views of the city. They DO make (average) pina coladas! Hurrah!
Next stop was a great Spanish tapas restaurant called Bodeas. As recommended by Mike the owner of Bonza Bikes (great place, they will line up a whole list of restaurants and bars for you, I'd pop in just for that). Due to the no booking (at Bodeas rather than Bonza Bikes) - therefore you have to wait a while policy we discovered an amazing place called the Red Door. Ace, ace bar. No signs, just a red door. This, not unsurprisingly, meant they were practically empty but the staff were ace, the sofas comfy and the menu superb. Oh - did I mention they have pina coladas on the menu. Made with fresh pineapple. AMAZING. No more pina colada hunting required this holiday!
Monday 13 September 2010
Blue Mountains
Hello from Sydney! I arrived and made it through the mega form-filling/interrogation that is customs. Have I been on a farm recently??? (No - but it makes you wonder if you had been and you forgot). However, I was allowed through, clutching my bottle of champagne (declared as a 'food' item...). Following the longest taxi queue in the world, I made it safely to Sydney. Paddington to be precise. Phew.
Out for lunch at Doyles in Watsons Bay for fish and chips. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Yum. Very nice. Sun shining, sat outside, good company, chips. What more could I want? (Ok, so some salt and vinegar would have gone down a treat but let's not get picky here).
We then drove up to the Blue Mountains for a mini-break in a holiday (mini break - hurrah!). A short drive and we were in chintz heaven at Lilianfels hotel and spa. Located conveniently close to the start of the hiking trails.
The staff thought I was hilarious, which I think was solely due to my being English rather than any witty banter from my corner. To explain, we arrived and immediately headed to the lounge for tea and scones (even before going to the room). I then spent some time at reception (by this point in my towelling robe and matching slippers) having the staff talk me through the dvd collection (apparently "amusing trash" is the funniest dvd descriptor known to man - if only I had known earlier, I could have my own show by now). However, dvds were hired (for the princely sum of AUD 6 per dvd) and all was well. Cue very girly evening of fizz, snacks and dvds (oh yes, and pillow fighting in our nighties - goes without saying). If you've not seen 50 first dates, go see it. Hilarious in all the wrong ways - just as an Adam Sandler film should be. Muchos giggling.
Early start the next morning (what jet lag...yawn) and by 8am we were off hiking. This meant I had to stop for lunch at 10.30am - I was STARVING!
The Blue Mountains were stunning, we were in Katoomba. We walked to the Three Sisters and over to the world's steepest railway. Due to the health-kick (which had been decided upon over fizz the night before) we decided to walk down then up again instead of taking the train. My calves are not thanking me for this today. Yeeks. I also have a headache which I am sure is due to the 'no-booze' element. Yes, I managed to go for dinner on Monday night and not have booze or pudding. Most unusual. I do hope I swiftly start to feel as fit as a fiddle (or possibly an athlete, I am sure they are fitter than wooden musical instruments). Maybe 'nearly as fit as an athlete, one without an issue with prohibited substances' should be the saying?
On return to the hotel we went to the spa which unfortunately had 'no availability for treatments that afternoon'. A few hours sat trying out free product samples (well if there were no appointments) and reading our books while drinking the free berry tea did demonstrate that the issue was not appointment availability, but staff availability. There were none. Very odd. Lots of nice looking treatment rooms and a spa area. Although I was somewhat put off by the green mould on the amethyst crystal fountain - albeit the water in this did not go near you and was not treatment related, merely decorative.
Anyway, we went for a boozeless, but very tasty, dinner at the Old City Bank Brasserie. Salad and fish for me and salad and chicken for K. Healthy, healthy, healthy. I had to eat almost an entire bag of pistachios (bought to keep our strength up while hiking) on my return to prevent myself from raiding the mini bar for the toblerone I knew was sat there. The sense of pride when I woke this morning (toblerone intact) was, quite frankly, ridiculous. [FYI, today I have had two ginormous mugs of tea but no booze as yet...However, it is 5pm so plenty of time for that to change].
Back in Paddington it is raining so a bit of a wander, then home for a cup of tea (or two) and cake. Yum. Off into town this evening, after two early nights and dvd-athons we probably should start acting our age...
Saturday 11 September 2010
Arrivals and departures
So I am sat in 'Champions', the sports bar, at HK airport. Just over a week since I was here last. Again I have the dubious glass of white wine (mmmm, chardonnay - I could recommend it to Mozaic), the potato skins with cheese (no bacon) and a glass of tap. Yes, I too am questioning why. Surely there are nicer places I could be. I think I am trying to recreate the beginning of the Bali trip - the time went too quickly. I want to be back drinking Pina Coladas. Doing my silly pina colada/bad stomach/paddy field/etc dances (yes, best not to ask). Having massages and going for strolls. Come back holiday!
Post Mozaic we were cautious of eating, generally. Not least due to the obvious food poisoning. Nice. (I'll not share further details). Thursday lunch we had the most delicious meal, and it was cheap as chips. Friday continued on a similar theme. We arrived in Jimbaran, home of the beachfront seafood bbq, and it was delicious! Sat right by the water (we had to move tables twice as the waves came up higher than the restaurant had expected). Utterly romantic, sat on the beach, tables and candlelight's, musicians playing, waves crashing and the smoke of the bbq all around.
We saw little of Jimbaran, opting for pina coladas and books on the beach. All lounging, no sightseeing so little to report. We stayed at the Intercontinental, which was a bit of the shock to the system with its enormous entrance, all speedy check-in and efficiency. It is an maaaaaaaaaaaahusive resort. A lovely place to stay but not the place to see Bali from. You can tell the kind of person that does see Bali solely from the resort - ok so I'm generalising based on meeting one person - but at check-out the rude man not only queue jumped (in full knowledge he had pushed in front of me - it was like being back in HK) but then asked for the US$ 1 'charitable donation' (added to every bill) - to be removed. Let's be clear here. His bill ran to a couple of pages and he was asking to be able to check out at 4pm (this looked like it may be possible pre-donation removal - he then had to be out by 1pm). We were staying for free (yay points) but rooms started at US$ 450 per night when I checked the website, so US$ 1 was surely lost in the roundings! Ah well. Rant over. Hopefully his luggage will get lost on the way home (although I pity the poor staff member that has to deal with that...)
Right, I'm rambling , and I have a flight to catch. Next stop Sydney. Hurrah! DW is at this point wandering around HK in the rain before a later flight back to the UK. Safe trip!
Post Mozaic we were cautious of eating, generally. Not least due to the obvious food poisoning. Nice. (I'll not share further details). Thursday lunch we had the most delicious meal, and it was cheap as chips. Friday continued on a similar theme. We arrived in Jimbaran, home of the beachfront seafood bbq, and it was delicious! Sat right by the water (we had to move tables twice as the waves came up higher than the restaurant had expected). Utterly romantic, sat on the beach, tables and candlelight's, musicians playing, waves crashing and the smoke of the bbq all around.
We saw little of Jimbaran, opting for pina coladas and books on the beach. All lounging, no sightseeing so little to report. We stayed at the Intercontinental, which was a bit of the shock to the system with its enormous entrance, all speedy check-in and efficiency. It is an maaaaaaaaaaaahusive resort. A lovely place to stay but not the place to see Bali from. You can tell the kind of person that does see Bali solely from the resort - ok so I'm generalising based on meeting one person - but at check-out the rude man not only queue jumped (in full knowledge he had pushed in front of me - it was like being back in HK) but then asked for the US$ 1 'charitable donation' (added to every bill) - to be removed. Let's be clear here. His bill ran to a couple of pages and he was asking to be able to check out at 4pm (this looked like it may be possible pre-donation removal - he then had to be out by 1pm). We were staying for free (yay points) but rooms started at US$ 450 per night when I checked the website, so US$ 1 was surely lost in the roundings! Ah well. Rant over. Hopefully his luggage will get lost on the way home (although I pity the poor staff member that has to deal with that...)
Right, I'm rambling , and I have a flight to catch. Next stop Sydney. Hurrah! DW is at this point wandering around HK in the rain before a later flight back to the UK. Safe trip!
Wednesday 8 September 2010
When bad food happens to good people...
MOZAIC RESTAURANT
Awards & Accolades
San Pellegrino Guide 2009 – ranked 84th of the Best 100 Restaurants in the World
Miele Guide 2008 - Top 5 Best Restaurant in Asia, rank: nr. 5
Miele guide 2009 – Top 10 Restaurants in Asia, rank: nr. 6
Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards - South East Asia's Most Innovative Western Cuisine Restaurant 2008
Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards - Indonesia Restaurant of the Year 2008
Yak Awards - Best Ubud Restaurant, 2008
Wine Spectator - Award of Excellence 2006, 07, 08
Traditions et Qualit̩ РLes Grandes Tables du Monde (Best Restaurants of the World) 2004, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09
Indonesia Tatler - Best Restaurant in Indonesia 2006, 07
Prestige Magazine - Best Restaurant in Indonesia 2006
Wine & Dine Magazine - Best Restaurant in Indonesia 2004
Best Bets - ‘Best of the Best Restaurants’ 2003,’04,’05,’06, 07-08
Also as listed in the Time Out 'Top Ten things to do in Bali". The Rough Guide and Lonely Planet rate it highly and every single person we have met has waxed lyrical about it.
It is also, officially, one of the worst meals (possibly THE worst) I have ever had in my life.
We arrive early (no room at Nuris for us to have a pre-dinner martini). We are greeted and taken to sit in the lounge area (nice, but could have been anywhere in the world). We order cocktails and ask if we can eat a little earlier than our reservation time. We are told that will not be a problem, so far so good. The menu has four options. A discovery menu (Indonesian), a Vegetarian tasting menu (Indonesian), a taster menu (French) and a Chefs Menu (110 not stated). The Chefs and the Vegetarian menus are at the discretion of the chef, the rest are stated.
Now I do love a fancy restaurant and a tasting menu so this was THE big treat for me this holiday.
The menu takes a bit of reading (you need to recover from the pricing, it claims to be GBP 45 in all the write ups). While we were doing so a waitress came and asked if we were ready to order and we asked for a few more minutes.
Cocktails arrived (not the GBO30 chefs special cocktails I hasten to add) and were drunk. Quite nice but not impressive. And then we sat with empty glasses. And sat, and sat, and sat. Finally one of the waitresses we had frantically been making eye contact with came over and advised that we had missed our slot when we had been asked to order earlier. No waiting time stated, no chance to order more drinks...
A while later we were taken to our table (along with the dissolved ice in our long-finished cocktail glasses) and ordered one vegetarian menu, one discovery menu and the accompanying wines. As this was the treat night of the holiday (I laugh dryly to myself as I type) we decided to have the fine wine accompaniment. 462ml (yes, I thought that was an odd amount too) for the extortionate price of GBP80pp. Still. This was going to be good! Fine wines and tasting menus at a World Renowned Restaurant!!
Time passes, we order mineral water. The amuse-bouche arrives - no drinks. Time passes, bread arrives. No drinks. The first course arrives along with the first tasting wine, (I remind you, GBP80 per person - to put this in context a 60 minute massage costs GBP6 here and our beautiful hotel GBP40 per night).
I eagerly awaited the treats that were to arrive....
...my first 'fine' wine was an Italian Pinot Grigio. And one I am certain they sell at All Bar One in the wharf. It's not one of the more expensive ones... First course was fine. However, maintaining hope, I was sure round two would be better.
Course two. I forget what the food was (it certainly wasn't memorable). Fine Wine two. A Chardonnay from Chilie. No comment. (I was more amused that horrified, this felt like a surreal experience and I was waiting for someone with a camera to jump out from under our table and tell us it was a set up).
I suggested we head home (DW had just been served a Riesling that tasted like apple juice. Warm apple juice).
But we stayed. Round three I was presented with two dates covered in something that tasted like lemon curd. These came with a Californian Pinot Noir. I left the majority of this only to have the staff demand "what is wrong with the food" - not in a gently concerned manner!
At this point I pretty much gave up eating and focused on peering at the other diners (business men with hookers (tick), Japanese couple with a ginormous tripod attached to the smallest digital camera I have ever seen (tick), boys on dates wearing inappropriately casual clothes looking awkward every time the menu / price is seen (tick, tick, tick)).
The meal continues like this until we finally were able to leave (we were relived and hot footed it out in the most ridiculously expensive taxi you could imagine). I recall a blended Cabernet Sauvignon. From Spain. We did get a glass of Pol Roger with the tasteless ice cream, and then there was some odd chocolate item that tasted like washing up liquid.
The bill came. Officially the most expensive meal either of us have ever had in our lives, and also the worst. It cost more that the accommodation for the entire holiday put together, and then some. Unbelievable. The service was appalling throughout. I had more fun and better food the evening a friend and I ended up in Burger King Leicester Square (dressed in black tie - McQueen darling - and a wee bit tipsy!).
I am thrilled I opted for not eating the food from the dates/lemon curd onwards as DW is now poorly, poorly sick from something he ate.
What can I say. Fancy food was not a good plan!
Awards & Accolades
San Pellegrino Guide 2009 – ranked 84th of the Best 100 Restaurants in the World
Miele Guide 2008 - Top 5 Best Restaurant in Asia, rank: nr. 5
Miele guide 2009 – Top 10 Restaurants in Asia, rank: nr. 6
Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards - South East Asia's Most Innovative Western Cuisine Restaurant 2008
Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards - Indonesia Restaurant of the Year 2008
Yak Awards - Best Ubud Restaurant, 2008
Wine Spectator - Award of Excellence 2006, 07, 08
Traditions et Qualit̩ РLes Grandes Tables du Monde (Best Restaurants of the World) 2004, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09
Indonesia Tatler - Best Restaurant in Indonesia 2006, 07
Prestige Magazine - Best Restaurant in Indonesia 2006
Wine & Dine Magazine - Best Restaurant in Indonesia 2004
Best Bets - ‘Best of the Best Restaurants’ 2003,’04,’05,’06, 07-08
Also as listed in the Time Out 'Top Ten things to do in Bali". The Rough Guide and Lonely Planet rate it highly and every single person we have met has waxed lyrical about it.
It is also, officially, one of the worst meals (possibly THE worst) I have ever had in my life.
We arrive early (no room at Nuris for us to have a pre-dinner martini). We are greeted and taken to sit in the lounge area (nice, but could have been anywhere in the world). We order cocktails and ask if we can eat a little earlier than our reservation time. We are told that will not be a problem, so far so good. The menu has four options. A discovery menu (Indonesian), a Vegetarian tasting menu (Indonesian), a taster menu (French) and a Chefs Menu (110 not stated). The Chefs and the Vegetarian menus are at the discretion of the chef, the rest are stated.
Now I do love a fancy restaurant and a tasting menu so this was THE big treat for me this holiday.
The menu takes a bit of reading (you need to recover from the pricing, it claims to be GBP 45 in all the write ups). While we were doing so a waitress came and asked if we were ready to order and we asked for a few more minutes.
Cocktails arrived (not the GBO30 chefs special cocktails I hasten to add) and were drunk. Quite nice but not impressive. And then we sat with empty glasses. And sat, and sat, and sat. Finally one of the waitresses we had frantically been making eye contact with came over and advised that we had missed our slot when we had been asked to order earlier. No waiting time stated, no chance to order more drinks...
A while later we were taken to our table (along with the dissolved ice in our long-finished cocktail glasses) and ordered one vegetarian menu, one discovery menu and the accompanying wines. As this was the treat night of the holiday (I laugh dryly to myself as I type) we decided to have the fine wine accompaniment. 462ml (yes, I thought that was an odd amount too) for the extortionate price of GBP80pp. Still. This was going to be good! Fine wines and tasting menus at a World Renowned Restaurant!!
Time passes, we order mineral water. The amuse-bouche arrives - no drinks. Time passes, bread arrives. No drinks. The first course arrives along with the first tasting wine, (I remind you, GBP80 per person - to put this in context a 60 minute massage costs GBP6 here and our beautiful hotel GBP40 per night).
I eagerly awaited the treats that were to arrive....
...my first 'fine' wine was an Italian Pinot Grigio. And one I am certain they sell at All Bar One in the wharf. It's not one of the more expensive ones... First course was fine. However, maintaining hope, I was sure round two would be better.
Course two. I forget what the food was (it certainly wasn't memorable). Fine Wine two. A Chardonnay from Chilie. No comment. (I was more amused that horrified, this felt like a surreal experience and I was waiting for someone with a camera to jump out from under our table and tell us it was a set up).
I suggested we head home (DW had just been served a Riesling that tasted like apple juice. Warm apple juice).
But we stayed. Round three I was presented with two dates covered in something that tasted like lemon curd. These came with a Californian Pinot Noir. I left the majority of this only to have the staff demand "what is wrong with the food" - not in a gently concerned manner!
At this point I pretty much gave up eating and focused on peering at the other diners (business men with hookers (tick), Japanese couple with a ginormous tripod attached to the smallest digital camera I have ever seen (tick), boys on dates wearing inappropriately casual clothes looking awkward every time the menu / price is seen (tick, tick, tick)).
The meal continues like this until we finally were able to leave (we were relived and hot footed it out in the most ridiculously expensive taxi you could imagine). I recall a blended Cabernet Sauvignon. From Spain. We did get a glass of Pol Roger with the tasteless ice cream, and then there was some odd chocolate item that tasted like washing up liquid.
The bill came. Officially the most expensive meal either of us have ever had in our lives, and also the worst. It cost more that the accommodation for the entire holiday put together, and then some. Unbelievable. The service was appalling throughout. I had more fun and better food the evening a friend and I ended up in Burger King Leicester Square (dressed in black tie - McQueen darling - and a wee bit tipsy!).
I am thrilled I opted for not eating the food from the dates/lemon curd onwards as DW is now poorly, poorly sick from something he ate.
What can I say. Fancy food was not a good plan!
Fire and bikes
Last night we headed into town for some traditional Balinese dance. None of the lonely-planet recommended troupes or venues were an option (always a good start) so we picked one that was nearby and looked fun! This was a combination of Kecak and Fire dancing. Kecak has fifty or so men chanting a cappella and is often called the 'monkey dance' due to the sounds they make "cak cak cak". This is also known as the trance dance as the cak cak cak sounds are also used to put the singers into a trance like state. The fire dance was a man dressed as a horse, walking on burning coconut shells. Most alarming! They were piled up high and had paraffin poured over them before being set alight!
Dinner was at a beautiful outside bar / restaurant called coffee and silver. The food was delicious, we had tuna fresh off the bbq. It also turned out to be live jazz night (I'm sensing a theme) so we had a wonderful soundtrack to our dinner. It did however sell a very odd looking dvd (advertised in the toilets of all places) which appeared to contain a lot of nudity (based on the pictures on front) and had "the Balinese Virgins" written on the back - which seemed somewhat incongruous given all profits from the sale went to set up schools (or similar). Odd. I'm guessing (hoping?) it is a historical Balinese classic....
Post dinner we went to a very odd upstairs bar which was playing an assortment of Bob Marley and the like. Another holiday pina colada for me but then home for an early night due to an early start the next day.
Why an early start - well, it was our Bali bike (or baik) tour! 8am pick up which is early for holidays! Fortunately they eased us in gently with a trip to a coffee plantation (I was never a coffee fan but am now a ginseng coffee convert) and then breakfast in a place with beautiful views of Mount Batur and the lake. Absolutely stunning.
Sadly it was then time to hop on the bikes.... The tour was great fun. Nicely structured so you could freewheel downhill for the majority of the trip (with a few nasty hills in between, but certainly a minority element). The tour took us through the local villages and we stopped to take in the sights. Lots of children en route shouting hello and wanting to hi-five you as you cycle by (I was wobbling dangerously and must practise this). The first stop was in a rice paddy where we had the chance to 'help' with the harvest. Whilst there is photo evidence of me merrily sieving rice (whilst wearing a bicycle helmet - safety first) I am not sure I can claim to have 'helped'. Working the rice paddies is woman's work. As I have written before, rice is not cultivated for sale, only for the family itself. As such it is the job of the man to provide an income and this is done in Ubud through painting, carving, jewellery or cock fighting - more about that in a moment.
Today is the eclipse (or Black Moon as it is known here). As such there is a great celebration being held at the temples. We stopped and met the women preparing the offerings for the temple. Intricately woven banana leaf baskets were being created to hold the offerings and we got to try some of the delicious moon-shaped biscuits, made out of sticky rice, coconut and sugar. Vegans and those of a sensitive nature - skip to the next paragraph. One of the offerings was a small (live) puppy (I am not a huge dog fan but this was cute). A blood offering is required for the bad spirits, to ensure they stay away.
We also saw a man collecting coconuts from the top of a palm. I will at somepoint upload the photographs, but this internet collection is far too slow. But it was absolutely amazing seeing this tiny, wizened man (in a pink sarong) scooting all the way to the top of the palm and beating down the coconuts with a stick. No safety equipment whatsoever (and nothing to warn those below there are falling coconuts).
Vegans etc - again skip this para. Another stop was to see a cockfight. I still feel squeamish thinking about it. The cocks have a big knife strapped to one foot, so the fight itself is relatively short. It takes about five minutes from start to the death. Rather horribly, if the birds are not fighting quickly/aggressively enough they put them into a small cage to finish. As above this is one of the ways the men can earn a living so there was a mass of men, all examining the birds and calling to place bets. This is illegal gambling and the police are frequent 'visitors' at the larger fights, which often have in excess of 1,000 attendees. Whilst the cockfighting was not my cup of tea, it was amazing to see this gathering and the rituals it entails. The owner of the winning bird gets to keep the other bird and the money.
The tour ended with a meal at the home of the owner of the bike tour company. In Bali it is traditional for families to live together so this was a huge compound where four generations live. It even had its own temple.
Back to Ubud and a trip to the market (we finally made it before sundown). Purchases made but we are clearly ridiculously poor at haggling! I think we paid about 20x over for our goods!
Off to Mazaic this evening. It is supposed to be the restaurant hotspot. Excited!
Dinner was at a beautiful outside bar / restaurant called coffee and silver. The food was delicious, we had tuna fresh off the bbq. It also turned out to be live jazz night (I'm sensing a theme) so we had a wonderful soundtrack to our dinner. It did however sell a very odd looking dvd (advertised in the toilets of all places) which appeared to contain a lot of nudity (based on the pictures on front) and had "the Balinese Virgins" written on the back - which seemed somewhat incongruous given all profits from the sale went to set up schools (or similar). Odd. I'm guessing (hoping?) it is a historical Balinese classic....
Post dinner we went to a very odd upstairs bar which was playing an assortment of Bob Marley and the like. Another holiday pina colada for me but then home for an early night due to an early start the next day.
Why an early start - well, it was our Bali bike (or baik) tour! 8am pick up which is early for holidays! Fortunately they eased us in gently with a trip to a coffee plantation (I was never a coffee fan but am now a ginseng coffee convert) and then breakfast in a place with beautiful views of Mount Batur and the lake. Absolutely stunning.
Sadly it was then time to hop on the bikes.... The tour was great fun. Nicely structured so you could freewheel downhill for the majority of the trip (with a few nasty hills in between, but certainly a minority element). The tour took us through the local villages and we stopped to take in the sights. Lots of children en route shouting hello and wanting to hi-five you as you cycle by (I was wobbling dangerously and must practise this). The first stop was in a rice paddy where we had the chance to 'help' with the harvest. Whilst there is photo evidence of me merrily sieving rice (whilst wearing a bicycle helmet - safety first) I am not sure I can claim to have 'helped'. Working the rice paddies is woman's work. As I have written before, rice is not cultivated for sale, only for the family itself. As such it is the job of the man to provide an income and this is done in Ubud through painting, carving, jewellery or cock fighting - more about that in a moment.
Today is the eclipse (or Black Moon as it is known here). As such there is a great celebration being held at the temples. We stopped and met the women preparing the offerings for the temple. Intricately woven banana leaf baskets were being created to hold the offerings and we got to try some of the delicious moon-shaped biscuits, made out of sticky rice, coconut and sugar. Vegans and those of a sensitive nature - skip to the next paragraph. One of the offerings was a small (live) puppy (I am not a huge dog fan but this was cute). A blood offering is required for the bad spirits, to ensure they stay away.
We also saw a man collecting coconuts from the top of a palm. I will at somepoint upload the photographs, but this internet collection is far too slow. But it was absolutely amazing seeing this tiny, wizened man (in a pink sarong) scooting all the way to the top of the palm and beating down the coconuts with a stick. No safety equipment whatsoever (and nothing to warn those below there are falling coconuts).
Vegans etc - again skip this para. Another stop was to see a cockfight. I still feel squeamish thinking about it. The cocks have a big knife strapped to one foot, so the fight itself is relatively short. It takes about five minutes from start to the death. Rather horribly, if the birds are not fighting quickly/aggressively enough they put them into a small cage to finish. As above this is one of the ways the men can earn a living so there was a mass of men, all examining the birds and calling to place bets. This is illegal gambling and the police are frequent 'visitors' at the larger fights, which often have in excess of 1,000 attendees. Whilst the cockfighting was not my cup of tea, it was amazing to see this gathering and the rituals it entails. The owner of the winning bird gets to keep the other bird and the money.
The tour ended with a meal at the home of the owner of the bike tour company. In Bali it is traditional for families to live together so this was a huge compound where four generations live. It even had its own temple.
Back to Ubud and a trip to the market (we finally made it before sundown). Purchases made but we are clearly ridiculously poor at haggling! I think we paid about 20x over for our goods!
Off to Mazaic this evening. It is supposed to be the restaurant hotspot. Excited!
Tuesday 7 September 2010
Rice paddies and wandering
Last night we walked into town to see the market, only to discover it closed at sundown, so we mostly saw shutting down stalls. A further trip is needed today! We had a wander through the backstreets, which are filled with shops selling paintings, clothing and jewellery. Spas also frequently feature and I was very tempted to try the 'doctor fish' foot treatment - but have so far resisted. Here you put your feet in a tank of fish and they nibble away all the dry skin for the 'ultimate' pedicure.
We had dinner at Casa Luna, the restaurant owned by the teacher at the cooking school. The ginger icecream was delicious and one I will be trying my best to recreate!
So today we went for a circular walk in Ubud Kaja through the paddy fields. They were absolutely beautiful. They are split level rice fields with amazing irrigation systems. It rained all night last night (poured!) and the water was still running exactly as and where it should. This form of tiered irrigation is called subuk irrigation, and the rice fields are run as cooperatives. More that 1200 subak associations oversee this supply of water and every farmer must belong to his local subuk. The farmers make enough for themselves, for offerings to the gods and a little to sell at market. The conditions in Bali means there are usually two, and sometimes three, crops a year. Help is also enlisted from the rice goddess Dewi Sri and throughout the paddies there are shrines and offerings.
The tranquil atmosphere was somewhat impacted by me shrieking and jumping a few feet in the air when I saw a snake. Of all things I am scared of snakes have to top the list. This turned out to be the first of three (visible) snakes. I dread to think how many more were lurking in the undergrowth. This led to loud chanting of 'stomp, stomp, stomp' when going through areas that looked particularly inviting to snakes... I'm half minded to write to the rough guide and tell them to add 'big black and small brown snakes' to their list of wildlife you may see on this walk. Yeeks. Still, we made it round safely and it was a beautiful trip.
We had dinner at Casa Luna, the restaurant owned by the teacher at the cooking school. The ginger icecream was delicious and one I will be trying my best to recreate!
So today we went for a circular walk in Ubud Kaja through the paddy fields. They were absolutely beautiful. They are split level rice fields with amazing irrigation systems. It rained all night last night (poured!) and the water was still running exactly as and where it should. This form of tiered irrigation is called subuk irrigation, and the rice fields are run as cooperatives. More that 1200 subak associations oversee this supply of water and every farmer must belong to his local subuk. The farmers make enough for themselves, for offerings to the gods and a little to sell at market. The conditions in Bali means there are usually two, and sometimes three, crops a year. Help is also enlisted from the rice goddess Dewi Sri and throughout the paddies there are shrines and offerings.
The tranquil atmosphere was somewhat impacted by me shrieking and jumping a few feet in the air when I saw a snake. Of all things I am scared of snakes have to top the list. This turned out to be the first of three (visible) snakes. I dread to think how many more were lurking in the undergrowth. This led to loud chanting of 'stomp, stomp, stomp' when going through areas that looked particularly inviting to snakes... I'm half minded to write to the rough guide and tell them to add 'big black and small brown snakes' to their list of wildlife you may see on this walk. Yeeks. Still, we made it round safely and it was a beautiful trip.
Monday 6 September 2010
Sleep, godesses and rice
Hmmm, holidays. How good is sleep? (Yes, this is coming from the girl who just had a three hour post lunch siesta). What can I say. It was recommended by our teacher after the final course in our cooking class: black sticky rice with palm sugar syrup and coconut milk. Brilliantly food like this is classed as good for you here. Hurrah, can we stay?
This morning was our cookery class. Which was ace, but first a little about last night and our breakfast.
Illness was reigning last night, DW continues to have the flu (and last night had a temperature of 38.4 degrees which a man in the cookery class said was enough to make you sterile - most alarming) and I had the taxi drivers words of 'don't drink the ice' resonating in my mind (say no more). But, this was not to discourage us from heading out into Ubud to find somewhere to get a bite to eat. Food after all, is king. Plus, I had just had the best massage EVER so was feeling nice and relaxed.
In yet another 'have I mentioned this trip is magical' moment, we stumbled across the Ubud Jazz Cafe. Brilliant (ok, quite good) live jazz and delicious treats, which we washed down with more mineral water than the waitress could entirely believe! Do make a trip if you find yourself in Ubud, it's an indoor-outdoor place (ie roof but no walls) and delicious daily specials such as the parmesan encrusted chicken (DW's) or the potato and roasted garlic soup (mine). For once I walked rather than stumbled home and we woke this morning feeling materially better. Hurrah!
Breakfast was served on our little terrace, I had the banana and coconut crepes with palm sugar syrup (high in vitamin A!) and DW had eggs. The fried banana is ordered for me tomorrow - mmmmmmm.
Food is very important here as is the combination of ingredients - something must be sweet, sour, salty and hot - all at the same time. If you are the host you do not eat, it is only for the guests.
We then went to the cookery school. Not quite a cookery school, more a talk and then a 'here's some we made earlier' so not masses of learning (unless you had never seen some of the ingredients fresh before) but you do come away with a cook book so I have a number of treats I will be whipping up on my return. I just need to build a barbecue that can burn coconut husks and find a shop in London that sells banana leaves and I'm away.
We did learn that turmeric is the amazing wonder herb which cures bites, cuts, cancer, heart disease and many other ailments. You can buy shots of the juice here as a health tonic, which we are off to buy - as soon as we stop being lazy and lolling around at our hotel.
Ubud is not quite what I expected. Our hotel is hugely peaceful and serene but the town is still quite busy and touristy.
DW wants me to put in some Bali facts so here you go:
- it is just south of the equator (yet, raining at the moment)
- it is 80% Hindu here so all around you will see offerings to the gods and beautiful carved statues
- offerings are placed a minimum of daily in front of doors and are made of woven baskets containing predominantly contain food, topped with flowers and incense
- DW claims he read in the guidebook that the last tiger here was killed in 1940 (although I'm sure this was a fact for HK...)
- the cookery school claims Bali is the home of cloves (Zanzibar also claimed this title when we visited)
Right, enough 'facts', off for a wander.
This morning was our cookery class. Which was ace, but first a little about last night and our breakfast.
Illness was reigning last night, DW continues to have the flu (and last night had a temperature of 38.4 degrees which a man in the cookery class said was enough to make you sterile - most alarming) and I had the taxi drivers words of 'don't drink the ice' resonating in my mind (say no more). But, this was not to discourage us from heading out into Ubud to find somewhere to get a bite to eat. Food after all, is king. Plus, I had just had the best massage EVER so was feeling nice and relaxed.
In yet another 'have I mentioned this trip is magical' moment, we stumbled across the Ubud Jazz Cafe. Brilliant (ok, quite good) live jazz and delicious treats, which we washed down with more mineral water than the waitress could entirely believe! Do make a trip if you find yourself in Ubud, it's an indoor-outdoor place (ie roof but no walls) and delicious daily specials such as the parmesan encrusted chicken (DW's) or the potato and roasted garlic soup (mine). For once I walked rather than stumbled home and we woke this morning feeling materially better. Hurrah!
Breakfast was served on our little terrace, I had the banana and coconut crepes with palm sugar syrup (high in vitamin A!) and DW had eggs. The fried banana is ordered for me tomorrow - mmmmmmm.
Food is very important here as is the combination of ingredients - something must be sweet, sour, salty and hot - all at the same time. If you are the host you do not eat, it is only for the guests.
We then went to the cookery school. Not quite a cookery school, more a talk and then a 'here's some we made earlier' so not masses of learning (unless you had never seen some of the ingredients fresh before) but you do come away with a cook book so I have a number of treats I will be whipping up on my return. I just need to build a barbecue that can burn coconut husks and find a shop in London that sells banana leaves and I'm away.
We did learn that turmeric is the amazing wonder herb which cures bites, cuts, cancer, heart disease and many other ailments. You can buy shots of the juice here as a health tonic, which we are off to buy - as soon as we stop being lazy and lolling around at our hotel.
Ubud is not quite what I expected. Our hotel is hugely peaceful and serene but the town is still quite busy and touristy.
DW wants me to put in some Bali facts so here you go:
- it is just south of the equator (yet, raining at the moment)
- it is 80% Hindu here so all around you will see offerings to the gods and beautiful carved statues
- offerings are placed a minimum of daily in front of doors and are made of woven baskets containing predominantly contain food, topped with flowers and incense
- DW claims he read in the guidebook that the last tiger here was killed in 1940 (although I'm sure this was a fact for HK...)
- the cookery school claims Bali is the home of cloves (Zanzibar also claimed this title when we visited)
Right, enough 'facts', off for a wander.
Sunday 5 September 2010
Legion - Seminyak - Ubud
Yesterday evening is up there on the perfect nights list. A balmy summer evening, post surf tiredness / aches dismissed with a few cold Bintangs: we were ready to head out into the evening.
We opted to head up to Seminyak and (despite my preference for Rough Guides) opted for the Lonely Planet 'if you go one place go here' restaurant recommendation.
Tiny wooden tables, covered in candles, sat in a tropical garden under a canopy of woven tree branches. Delicious food and wonderfully thoughtful service, the staff even bring over mosquito spray as you arrive!
We then headed to Ku de Ta. Possibly the most written about bar in Bali. Seafront views (tick), dress code (tick), inordinately expensive cocktails (tick), 'lounge' music (tick). I have to say, despite the aforementioned list possibly making it too fancy to be fun, it was amazing. We had beautiful sea views and the bar has huge lights onto the waves so surf watching is a must. I got thoroughly drunk on KDT coladas (yes, of course I sang the song, many times). I was also drinking something called an 'automobile'.
Talking of automobiles there were three young (UK) 'lads' on holiday sat next to us (my gap year funding never covered the cost of that kind of caper!). Anyway, at one point, prior to ordering a further round of beers, they asked the waiter "can you drink and driver here?" On receiving a response to the affirmative they high-fived and we still ordering rounds as we left. Madness! (Cue muttering, what has happened to the youth of today etc). However, even this could not spoil my utterly, utterly top evening.
DW steered me home (did I mention the colada's had nitrogen foamed coconut topping?) and somehow I awoke this morning sans hangover. Miraculous, that is the power of good cocktails.
Today we walked through Legion and Seminyak and played 'spot the Bintang'. It is a very simple game. If you see someone wearing a Bintang singlet you shout "Bintang, [x] o'clock'. Now last night I had noticed that the dress code for a number of bars was very specific, stating "no alcohol branded singlets" and wondered why on earth that would be a specific requirement. Having spotted many, many Bintang singlets today (Bintang is the local beer) I now understand why...
...and why? Oh yes, Bali is ozzie paradise. I have now learnt what a 'bogan' is (sort of equivalent to chav) and also how to identify one. Frequently found holidaying in Bali, wearing a Bintang beer singlet. Hence the dress code signs. All clear now?
We have not bought Bintang branded clothing yet. But I feel a comedy photo moment coming on...
After a wander around Seminyak (more high-end fashion shops that you would have believed possible) we decided to head up to Ubud. Now don't get me wrong, Seminyak is a nice place but two nights is plenty, unless you want to lounge by the pool or suf.
Now, being organised, we had pre-booked a driver, agreed a time / place / price etc. However (in true 'you're a tourist' style) he arrives and doubles the fare. Hmm. So a quick call was made to a taxi driver encountered earlier in the day who had insisted we were fools for going with anyone else as he would 'make us happy'.
So off we headed. Stop one was at the Bali Orchid Garden. Absolutely beautiful but also hilarious as the woman showing us round spent the trip making us pose for photos around various flowers saying to DW "now kiss your wife, 1-2-3". Absolutely brilliant. We have one of us 'clasping' hands around a bougainvillea, kissing behind orchids. You should have seen our faces.
Next was the tour of the shops. You know you are going to be ripped off and you also know you have no way of preventing the detours en-route. All credit to our taxi driver he told us how much the shops would give him if we spent money. So stop two was a silversmiths (I picked up a nice 30th gift for a friend) and stop three was a batki shop to buy saris. Another hilarious incident as I now have a photo of DW being forced into a pink and orange sari by two men. I'm open to offers for that one. In Bali you have to wear a sari (regardless of gender) if you are visiting a temple. Otherwise you will not be permitted. So two saris were purchased (sadly not the pink version).
We were shattered by this point and managed to cry off stops four and five (wood carving and paintings) and headed to our hotel. Which is where I am now. On our private terrace. Yes, we have a private terrace. They bring the breakfast here. And this costs GBP45 a night for both of us. Is bliss.
Right, massage calling.
We opted to head up to Seminyak and (despite my preference for Rough Guides) opted for the Lonely Planet 'if you go one place go here' restaurant recommendation.
Tiny wooden tables, covered in candles, sat in a tropical garden under a canopy of woven tree branches. Delicious food and wonderfully thoughtful service, the staff even bring over mosquito spray as you arrive!
We then headed to Ku de Ta. Possibly the most written about bar in Bali. Seafront views (tick), dress code (tick), inordinately expensive cocktails (tick), 'lounge' music (tick). I have to say, despite the aforementioned list possibly making it too fancy to be fun, it was amazing. We had beautiful sea views and the bar has huge lights onto the waves so surf watching is a must. I got thoroughly drunk on KDT coladas (yes, of course I sang the song, many times). I was also drinking something called an 'automobile'.
Talking of automobiles there were three young (UK) 'lads' on holiday sat next to us (my gap year funding never covered the cost of that kind of caper!). Anyway, at one point, prior to ordering a further round of beers, they asked the waiter "can you drink and driver here?" On receiving a response to the affirmative they high-fived and we still ordering rounds as we left. Madness! (Cue muttering, what has happened to the youth of today etc). However, even this could not spoil my utterly, utterly top evening.
DW steered me home (did I mention the colada's had nitrogen foamed coconut topping?) and somehow I awoke this morning sans hangover. Miraculous, that is the power of good cocktails.
Today we walked through Legion and Seminyak and played 'spot the Bintang'. It is a very simple game. If you see someone wearing a Bintang singlet you shout "Bintang, [x] o'clock'. Now last night I had noticed that the dress code for a number of bars was very specific, stating "no alcohol branded singlets" and wondered why on earth that would be a specific requirement. Having spotted many, many Bintang singlets today (Bintang is the local beer) I now understand why...
...and why? Oh yes, Bali is ozzie paradise. I have now learnt what a 'bogan' is (sort of equivalent to chav) and also how to identify one. Frequently found holidaying in Bali, wearing a Bintang beer singlet. Hence the dress code signs. All clear now?
We have not bought Bintang branded clothing yet. But I feel a comedy photo moment coming on...
After a wander around Seminyak (more high-end fashion shops that you would have believed possible) we decided to head up to Ubud. Now don't get me wrong, Seminyak is a nice place but two nights is plenty, unless you want to lounge by the pool or suf.
Now, being organised, we had pre-booked a driver, agreed a time / place / price etc. However (in true 'you're a tourist' style) he arrives and doubles the fare. Hmm. So a quick call was made to a taxi driver encountered earlier in the day who had insisted we were fools for going with anyone else as he would 'make us happy'.
So off we headed. Stop one was at the Bali Orchid Garden. Absolutely beautiful but also hilarious as the woman showing us round spent the trip making us pose for photos around various flowers saying to DW "now kiss your wife, 1-2-3". Absolutely brilliant. We have one of us 'clasping' hands around a bougainvillea, kissing behind orchids. You should have seen our faces.
Next was the tour of the shops. You know you are going to be ripped off and you also know you have no way of preventing the detours en-route. All credit to our taxi driver he told us how much the shops would give him if we spent money. So stop two was a silversmiths (I picked up a nice 30th gift for a friend) and stop three was a batki shop to buy saris. Another hilarious incident as I now have a photo of DW being forced into a pink and orange sari by two men. I'm open to offers for that one. In Bali you have to wear a sari (regardless of gender) if you are visiting a temple. Otherwise you will not be permitted. So two saris were purchased (sadly not the pink version).
We were shattered by this point and managed to cry off stops four and five (wood carving and paintings) and headed to our hotel. Which is where I am now. On our private terrace. Yes, we have a private terrace. They bring the breakfast here. And this costs GBP45 a night for both of us. Is bliss.
Right, massage calling.
Saturday 4 September 2010
Surf's up!
We awoke to the staff banging on the hotel door to clean the room, leaving us no option but to head downstairs for breakfast. (It really wasn't that late!) Fortunately a delicious array of goodies was available. Depite the need to wear a bikini later that day I plumped for the deep fried bananas with maple syrup. Yum (and genuinely, it is a bit late to be worrying about things like that after a three month food-a-thon).
As we are, quite literally, on the beach, we decided to head for a stroll along the front to get our bearings. We are in Kuta and we walked up towards Seminyak. I was mostly trying to spot the bar I want to go to this evening. It looks like the kind of place to sell pina coladas. And you know how I like pina coladas.
A couple of hours of strolling (so nice to have the time to do this) and it was a rush back to get ready for the activity of the day - surfing!
I have never been anywhere near a surf board before but I had visions of myself as a surf godesss. Clearly. I've got the sweaty betty bikini (per their PR - practical for watersports, yet effortlessly stylish). I spend hours and hours doing pilates (balance). What more do I need??
Quite a lot it appears. I could hear 'hahahahahaha, wipeout!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' reverberating through my brain as I fell, and fell, and fell, into the water. I spent more time underwater than anywhere else and am quite frankly, exhausted. Having said that , I did actually enjoy myself and would certainly do it all again (ok, maybe not the bit where I hit myself on the chin with the surfboard while choking on salt water).
At one point the board and I managed to turn 360. Great as for once I ended up above water. (To be clear this was a roll into the water, not a great surfing move...)
Still, but the end of the lesson I had technically 'stood' on my board. Admittedly the board by this point was going v e r y s l o w l y... Still, I have now surfed. As a result I have weird shaped sunburn, red eyes and a need for beer. Immediately please.
As we are, quite literally, on the beach, we decided to head for a stroll along the front to get our bearings. We are in Kuta and we walked up towards Seminyak. I was mostly trying to spot the bar I want to go to this evening. It looks like the kind of place to sell pina coladas. And you know how I like pina coladas.
A couple of hours of strolling (so nice to have the time to do this) and it was a rush back to get ready for the activity of the day - surfing!
I have never been anywhere near a surf board before but I had visions of myself as a surf godesss. Clearly. I've got the sweaty betty bikini (per their PR - practical for watersports, yet effortlessly stylish). I spend hours and hours doing pilates (balance). What more do I need??
Quite a lot it appears. I could hear 'hahahahahaha, wipeout!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' reverberating through my brain as I fell, and fell, and fell, into the water. I spent more time underwater than anywhere else and am quite frankly, exhausted. Having said that , I did actually enjoy myself and would certainly do it all again (ok, maybe not the bit where I hit myself on the chin with the surfboard while choking on salt water).
At one point the board and I managed to turn 360. Great as for once I ended up above water. (To be clear this was a roll into the water, not a great surfing move...)
Still, but the end of the lesson I had technically 'stood' on my board. Admittedly the board by this point was going v e r y s l o w l y... Still, I have now surfed. As a result I have weird shaped sunburn, red eyes and a need for beer. Immediately please.
Beautiful Bali - the arrival...
Right. So I've not been 'in Asia' for three months and a tiny bit. So you would think I would be quite good at this travelling lark by now. Right?
Oh no sireee. Not at all.
I literally ran out of the office for my Gaurada flight (yes, the airline only recently re-permitted to fly into European air space due to safety concerns). As I ran I had an enormous cream and red stripey sun hat on my head and my parting words to my colleagues were "I'd say goodbye but I'll see you in a couple of weeks and I'm running a little bit late for my flight".
I say this over and over again but I am genuinely NEVER leaving for a holiday on a work day again. It just results in complete chaos. The day started badly with the 'apartment' promising to call me a cab, then advising they couldn't (man I really really do not like that place). Then my bag straps broke on the way to get a cab, then work security decided they didn't like the look of my UK pass (I've only been going into the building with it for three months) THEN my jeans ripped - right across the bum. A great look for the office. Nice.
Anyway, we made it to the airport, I hastily downed white wine in an attempt to forget all, mentally put myself in a position where I felt unable to look at my bberry and to get in the 'holiday spirit'. A few gulps of some (nasty tasting) dubious German white 'wine of the month'(actually the only wine available) and all looked as though it would go well.
To be fair, I would fly Garuda again. Unlike BA (don't get me started there) their response to the negative press appears to be to improve the service so people want to fly. They were lovely! (and there were no screaming children - I guess concerned parents would not use this airline - a bonus in my eyes!)
We (Mr Williams) and I arrive at Bali airport, clutching visa and customs forms. Alcohol and uncensored dvds (of any variety) are not permitted. Hmm, we have 4 bottles of champagne and two of (my favourite) red wine in the luggage - but surely we can chance it???
Ah, those would be the customs x-ray machines. So dutifully through the red channel we go - the customs form kindly advises you that alcohol will be destroyed (much better than the Malaysian form which kindly tells you drug trafficking is punishable by death). The customs men did not know what to do with us. We declared and asked if we could pay duty (not an option). There is a bucket to empty such contraband into (oh the waste) and we were pointed in its direction. Our explanations that it was very nice wine and would they not prefer to have it themselves (we were in good humour about this - these things happen and it is the holidays) were met with complete amusement / bafflement and resulted in a conflab of the customs chaps. Now I have to admit, such things do cause me stress (much to the amusement of DW) so at this point I was convinced we were about to be had up for trying to bribe a customs official. However, the result was one bottle of red (I still weep) emptied in the contraband-bucket, and we were waved on our way with a 'don't do it again next visit'. Phew! (and brilliant!). I remain thoroughly relieved that I did not pack the CSI box-set - not sure I could have handed that over!
To put the 'scariness' of the arrival process in perspective I think it is only fair I tell you that the officers in passport control had staff passes with neck straps sponsored by Billabong (mum, that is a surf brand).
So, we finally hit 'arrivals' and were met without incident by the taxi to our hotel - who provided cold towels and bottled water. Despite it being 10pm it was still 34 degrees. This set the tone nicely for arrival at our hotel .
Now, I had low expectations for the hotel. It cost (comparative) buttons, was difficult to book (no online reservation on the website, no response to emails, and booked via a random tour operator), recommended by the surf school and cheaper than anywhere else I could find. Overall a high risk strategy.
However, we arrived to tropical loveliness, a reception filled with ornate carvings, a stunning pool set in the middle of a central garden and a bar with a sea view playing suitably holiday-like tunes such as "Islands in a Stream" - go Dolly. Absolutely heavenly. (Hotel Kumala Pantai if you're thinking of a visit).
Whilst straight to bed would have been the sensible approach (DW is ill) we opted to head to the bar next door for the most delicious seafood you can imagine, free flowing bintang beer and a live 'band'. Hurrah.
Oh no sireee. Not at all.
I literally ran out of the office for my Gaurada flight (yes, the airline only recently re-permitted to fly into European air space due to safety concerns). As I ran I had an enormous cream and red stripey sun hat on my head and my parting words to my colleagues were "I'd say goodbye but I'll see you in a couple of weeks and I'm running a little bit late for my flight".
I say this over and over again but I am genuinely NEVER leaving for a holiday on a work day again. It just results in complete chaos. The day started badly with the 'apartment' promising to call me a cab, then advising they couldn't (man I really really do not like that place). Then my bag straps broke on the way to get a cab, then work security decided they didn't like the look of my UK pass (I've only been going into the building with it for three months) THEN my jeans ripped - right across the bum. A great look for the office. Nice.
Anyway, we made it to the airport, I hastily downed white wine in an attempt to forget all, mentally put myself in a position where I felt unable to look at my bberry and to get in the 'holiday spirit'. A few gulps of some (nasty tasting) dubious German white 'wine of the month'(actually the only wine available) and all looked as though it would go well.
To be fair, I would fly Garuda again. Unlike BA (don't get me started there) their response to the negative press appears to be to improve the service so people want to fly. They were lovely! (and there were no screaming children - I guess concerned parents would not use this airline - a bonus in my eyes!)
We (Mr Williams) and I arrive at Bali airport, clutching visa and customs forms. Alcohol and uncensored dvds (of any variety) are not permitted. Hmm, we have 4 bottles of champagne and two of (my favourite) red wine in the luggage - but surely we can chance it???
Ah, those would be the customs x-ray machines. So dutifully through the red channel we go - the customs form kindly advises you that alcohol will be destroyed (much better than the Malaysian form which kindly tells you drug trafficking is punishable by death). The customs men did not know what to do with us. We declared and asked if we could pay duty (not an option). There is a bucket to empty such contraband into (oh the waste) and we were pointed in its direction. Our explanations that it was very nice wine and would they not prefer to have it themselves (we were in good humour about this - these things happen and it is the holidays) were met with complete amusement / bafflement and resulted in a conflab of the customs chaps. Now I have to admit, such things do cause me stress (much to the amusement of DW) so at this point I was convinced we were about to be had up for trying to bribe a customs official. However, the result was one bottle of red (I still weep) emptied in the contraband-bucket, and we were waved on our way with a 'don't do it again next visit'. Phew! (and brilliant!). I remain thoroughly relieved that I did not pack the CSI box-set - not sure I could have handed that over!
To put the 'scariness' of the arrival process in perspective I think it is only fair I tell you that the officers in passport control had staff passes with neck straps sponsored by Billabong (mum, that is a surf brand).
So, we finally hit 'arrivals' and were met without incident by the taxi to our hotel - who provided cold towels and bottled water. Despite it being 10pm it was still 34 degrees. This set the tone nicely for arrival at our hotel .
Now, I had low expectations for the hotel. It cost (comparative) buttons, was difficult to book (no online reservation on the website, no response to emails, and booked via a random tour operator), recommended by the surf school and cheaper than anywhere else I could find. Overall a high risk strategy.
However, we arrived to tropical loveliness, a reception filled with ornate carvings, a stunning pool set in the middle of a central garden and a bar with a sea view playing suitably holiday-like tunes such as "Islands in a Stream" - go Dolly. Absolutely heavenly. (Hotel Kumala Pantai if you're thinking of a visit).
Whilst straight to bed would have been the sensible approach (DW is ill) we opted to head to the bar next door for the most delicious seafood you can imagine, free flowing bintang beer and a live 'band'. Hurrah.
Thursday 2 September 2010
The last* day
* not really my last day.
So today was supposed to be wake up, pack up, head off. However, today is now wake up, pack for my holiday, hope that the apartment** can be left safely for two weeks, empty fridge, head off.
** for "apartment" read "tiny tiny room without walls".
However, today is my last day with my current Hong Kong team, who are somewhat amused that I have had been here only three months, had three leaving dos, and will be back in a fortnight. Ahem. Well, I'll only be back with them for a week (do you think I get to have another leaving do?). I do now have an official, official 'last day' - with a flight*** booked back to London and everything.
*** admittedly I have not received the flight confirmation but I am assured it is winging its way through the email ether to me.
Well, this week has flown by. Whilst at moments time went v e r y s l o w l y it does seem mere minutes ago that I arrived here, flip flops in one hand. Laptop in the other (which I promptly broke).
I was trying to think of my favourite HK moment in memory of leaving. However, as I'm not really I have a few (four) weeks respite until I need to make a final decision. Ooooh, what will it be!
Right, work then holidays. Bali here I come. Hurrah!
Wednesday 1 September 2010
Spicy Crab and curly wurlys
Yes, more food. I do apologise if this has become an (almost) daily update of what I eat, but to be honest the middle bits are relatively dull.
In between eating my days go something like this:
- wake up, shower, leave flat
- get outside, realise I have forgotten umbrella, head back in - get umbrella
- put i-pod on, wish i-pod magically had new tunes added, skip tracks frantically to one I want to hear, find good track just as I get to traffic lights, press pause
- lights change, resume play
- arrive at work, wonder how I can look such a mess in only 25 mins. Try and remedy rain / sun damage
- get tea, spill the majority of it. Wonder why I seem to be unable to carry paper cups of tea without spilling them. Decide it must be a design fault - I was fine as a waitress
- tun on computer. Wait for it to start working, drink remaining (non-spilt) tea while waiting.
- email, write papers, print 'stuff', meetings,
- lunch
- email, write papers, print more 'stuff' meetings
- walk home (repeat i-pod routine), eat enormous amounts of food or pick up noodles and watch CSI.
- sleep
So, last night was NOT noodles and was in fact leaving do Number Three. (I should have said I was leaving earlier, is great for your social life). This was the turn of "Under the Bridge Spicy Crab". A frequently imitated restaurant, there are about five 'Under the Bridge Spicy Crab' restaurants in a row in Lockhart Road, Wanchai. I am assured we were booked into the best one.
It took us a few attempts to get to the right one but, as ever, the food was amazing. I'd go on and on about it but I've gone on and on about food a lot. Huge plates of delicious, fresh food. You get the idea. We had Blue Girl beer too, which for some reason amused me. I have no idea why, possibly drinking it makes it amusing. Who knows.
Anyway, I have nothing witty to say (tremendously disappointing) and there is a risk the canteen will close shortly causing me to miss my afternoon cup of tea. Which just can't happen.
Tonight is my last* night in Hong Kong. Madness. Where did the time go? And what shall I do as the last ever* treat? [Cue suspense]....
Oh, ps etc. Why curly wurlys? They were my leaving gift to the team. Can't believe they have never had them (I had three for breakfast yesterday). I think there will be a run on Tesco online overseas ordering now. Possibly.
*technically NOT my "last" night in HK.
In between eating my days go something like this:
- wake up, shower, leave flat
- get outside, realise I have forgotten umbrella, head back in - get umbrella
- put i-pod on, wish i-pod magically had new tunes added, skip tracks frantically to one I want to hear, find good track just as I get to traffic lights, press pause
- lights change, resume play
- arrive at work, wonder how I can look such a mess in only 25 mins. Try and remedy rain / sun damage
- get tea, spill the majority of it. Wonder why I seem to be unable to carry paper cups of tea without spilling them. Decide it must be a design fault - I was fine as a waitress
- tun on computer. Wait for it to start working, drink remaining (non-spilt) tea while waiting.
- email, write papers, print 'stuff', meetings,
- lunch
- email, write papers, print more 'stuff' meetings
- walk home (repeat i-pod routine), eat enormous amounts of food or pick up noodles and watch CSI.
- sleep
So, last night was NOT noodles and was in fact leaving do Number Three. (I should have said I was leaving earlier, is great for your social life). This was the turn of "Under the Bridge Spicy Crab". A frequently imitated restaurant, there are about five 'Under the Bridge Spicy Crab' restaurants in a row in Lockhart Road, Wanchai. I am assured we were booked into the best one.
It took us a few attempts to get to the right one but, as ever, the food was amazing. I'd go on and on about it but I've gone on and on about food a lot. Huge plates of delicious, fresh food. You get the idea. We had Blue Girl beer too, which for some reason amused me. I have no idea why, possibly drinking it makes it amusing. Who knows.
Anyway, I have nothing witty to say (tremendously disappointing) and there is a risk the canteen will close shortly causing me to miss my afternoon cup of tea. Which just can't happen.
Tonight is my last* night in Hong Kong. Madness. Where did the time go? And what shall I do as the last ever* treat? [Cue suspense]....
Oh, ps etc. Why curly wurlys? They were my leaving gift to the team. Can't believe they have never had them (I had three for breakfast yesterday). I think there will be a run on Tesco online overseas ordering now. Possibly.
*technically NOT my "last" night in HK.
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