Month end...

...means I'm mostly in the office. So here is the view from our floor.

Amber Warning (not a song title)

Ok, so I've mentioned in passing a couple of times that it rains a bit here. You may have missed this, I've played it down a lot.

Well, today I arrived at work to be asked if I had seen the Warnings (I consider this to merit capitalisation). What Warnings you ask (I note a tone of concern in your voice, and I thank you for that). The Warnings that show on your tv screen. Ah, I've not watched tv...

Well, today we had an Amber Warning (rain was falling at >30mm per hour and there was a risk of flooding in poorly drained and low lying areas) and a Thunderstorm Warning (risk of thunderstorms, take shelter indoors during thunderstorms and avoid highly conductive objects).

So there you go! I started wishing the building could not easily be dismantled... (I've told you the dismantling story, right?)

So far as I have established rain Warnings can be Amber (floods), Red (bad) or Black (very bad, you don't have to go to work - mostly due to you being advised not to go outdoors). Wind alerts are based on numbers (I think 3, 5 and 8. 8 being really bad - again do not leave the house). Thunderstorms appear to be a bad thing generally. Particularly when combined with rain or wind. Watch out for them.

New google favourite for me it is - the Hong Kong observatory! Please send dvds - I think I'm going to be indoors a lot!

It was actually quite scary and I sonewhat wished I had never been made aware these Warnings existed (I acknowledge this is possibly not the safest option, but still, it has merits). I am sure you will be pleased to hear though that the Warnings were removed and I am home safely. I must enquire about the level of insurance cover I have and whether I get danger money for this.

Great quote today from someone who has been here before (I am stealing with pride). "Nowhere to go when it rains for a social life except maybe Lan Quai Fong although you have to accept that it is full of 40 year olds pretending they are students again". This is entirely correct. Dvds please!!!!!

Spa heaven

Those of you with wallpaperguides, flick to page 94. Now book your flight to visit. It is even better than it looks.

What can I say... Crystal amethyst steam room, tropical rain showers, cold mist pods, ice baths, water massage pools., hot seats, relaxation rooms and orange water.

So I arrived, sipped my hot tea (lemon, ginger and honey - delicious) and changed into my spa robe. A very nice robe. Plus, a freebie spa bag. Goodies!

After making the most of the facilities for three or so hours pre treatment (I'm going 24 hours pre next time) I went for my first treatment, a Rasul. For this you are entirely covered in mud. You are then left in a gorgeous copper coloured room in a little throne-like seat and the treatment starts. First dry heat, then wet heat then a shower. All while in the one seat. The idea is the heat treatment assists in the minerals soaking into the skin (or similar). Anyway, a wonderful if slightly overly-warm treatment. It was too hot to pick up the glass of water provided!

Following this a wonderful massage. Relaxation beyond relaxation... I'm going every time I'm rained in!

Yes, those of you that are wondering, the rain has started again. My task for the week is to try and find a pair of these. Unless Chloe see my blog, mistake me for a celeb, and ship me a freebie pair. Or similar... www.netaporter.co.uk/product/60415

5.30am HK Sunday

...it has stopped raining.

My apartment

A few of you have been asking about my current home so, as I'm rained in, here are a few pictures for your enjoyment...

Raindrops keep falling on my head...

Well, I have to admit that this blog is becoming more and more devoted to West Wing than to anything else at the moment (I've just finished Season 4 and will be hoping for a chance to go buy Season 5 later today). Many thanks for the posted wispas, they have been keeping me company :o)

This is not due to a lack of desire on my part to go and see all HK has to offer but is a direct result of month end and the commencement of monsoon season. Auditors and rain. Hurrah.

I'm not talking a pack a brolly, light scattering, I'm talking sheets of rain and an inability to leave the apartment without getting drenched! The dvd player and I and also the indoor/outdoor terrace and I are going to become good friends!

[In case of confusion, the indoor/outdoor terrace is level 5 in my block. It has a roof (there are a number of floors above it) but no walls / windows. Hopefully clearer now].

Whilst I have watched rain here, it appears all sorts has been happening in the UK so a big CONGRATULATIONS to Gem and Lee on the birth of Eliza Amber (hurrah!), WHOOP WHOOP to my sister for getting her degree AND a job and a final (but equally important) ENJOY and CONGRATULATIONS to James and George who are getting married today!! I look forward to celebrating in person with all of you in a few months.

Anyway, this week has taught me a few new things. I have learnt that a "bigha" is a unit of measurement. However, if you look this up on wikipedia it is not entirely clear what size this unit is. Always handy when assessing the value of land. "We have two bighas of land for sale, who would like to argue how much the buyer actually gets?" - I'm amazed London estate agents haven't (officially) taken this approach. From reading property adverts it appears they, unofficially, may have done so. Anyway, for those of you who already knew what a bigha was I apologise for boring you. Those who would like more information on bighas can find it at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bigha. I just liked the name.

I also learnt that my inability to correctly pronounce "I am a vegetarian" (if you recall, you say "I eat vegetables") which means I have been saying "I eat baby boys" and accounts for the horrified / amused yet confused faces I have been getting in local restaurants when attempting to order. Ahem. Less than ideal.

A further discovery was "lunch handbags". Yes, the women I work with have a, smaller, 'lunch' handbag. This is so you do not have to lug your big bag when you go for lunch. Strikes me as a genius idea and (just as soon as the rain stops) I'm going shopping!

A final discovery, as advised by my team, is that whilst HK is a very safe place to live, pickpocketing is very common. They were horrified at the lack of attention I paid to my handbag and possessions generally and I have promised I will keep a closer eye in future.

On the food front, this Friday I was taken to a noodle bar by my team, this one famous for its fish soup. Here my (delicious) food was kindly ordered for me, to ensure I tried the specialities. (I had fishball and tofu soup - the fish and the tofu are mixed and fried), and Chinese turnip (taro) in fish soup. I also had lemon barley water, famed here for its cooling and healing properties. I'm hoping this will make up for my complete lack of attendance at the gym. yes, even when pretty much locked down in my apartment here I cannot find the will to walk (ok, take the lift) to the in-building gym.

Last night I went to Posto Pubblico, an Italian Osteria, which made a bit of a change! Delicious pizza, home made pasta, tapas style starters and a nice wine list too! www.postopubblico.com YUM.

This was followed by the discovery of lychee daiquiris. Delicious but deadly. I did however cut my night short so I could be up nice and early for my excursions today. Please note, it is gone 1pm and I'm still waiting for the rain to stop! Should have gone dancing...

Anyway, had there been marginally better weather I was planning on taking a trip to Lantau Island to see the Big Budda and take a trip on the skyrail there. It is supposed to be fabulous, I will keep you all updated if I get there!

Tomorrow I have planned for rain and am off to spend the day at a spa. I'm almost hopeful the weather doesn't improve.

Anyway, I hope to have more interesting news soon. Until next time!

When it rains it pours...

I can honestly say I have never in my life seen such sheets of rain as those that came down this morning. I stepped out of the house and instantly (despite new super-sized umbrella) I had wet feet. Hmm. Great way to start the day. I actually wondered if this was some form of punishment for my 'late' night watching the football.

I then discovered that when it rains it takes materially longer to get to work as navigating your way through the puddles (I use the term lightly, some would have come up to my knees) and the umbrellas means slow progress is made.

I had joked about buying wellies before. Today I discovered that all sensible women wear wellies or flip flops (this only makes sense when the rain is warm which is hard to imagine I know) and keep their shoes and stockings in the office. This assists in the getting to work and not freezing from the air con / wet shoe combo on arrival. Note to self, go buy wellies.

On my way home it was dry as a bone, not a spot of water to be seen. Incredible!

And I'm told this is just the very start of monsoon season. Mum, I take back all the 'plastic shoes' comments...

Pointing and smiling

Well, life continues in Hong Kong. I'm afraid I have nothing exciting to tell you. I go to work, I come home. I think about going to the gym. I actually go and get noodles. The noodles bars here are excellent. I have picked a definite favourite. I am now recognised on arrival and my order is automatically cooked up! This evening I caused some chaos by adding a side order to my "usual". This involved getting a colleague to write my order down for me, and taking it with me. It is amazing how far you can get with pointing and smiling.

Tomorrow I'm off to Happy Valley Races and then for the football. Or at least the pre-football drinks. I may actually watch this match. This could be my last chance. It is definitely is my last chance to go to Happy Valley. It is the last race there this season. Quite exciting!

Hiking, Heatstroke and Happy Birthday

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY DEAR (Izzy's) MUM!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!!!

Today I went on a trip to walk part of the MacLehose trail. This runs through the New Territories. It is 100 kilometers long, split into 10 parts and is named after Hong Kong's longest serving Emperor, Crawford Murray MacLehose. (who loved hiking and created a number of hiking trails).

This 'hike' can be done in stages or the whole 100k. The Oxfam "trailwalker" is an annual event here and is repeated in other countries. On this note any of you that have been meaning to sponsor the lovely Louise and team should definitely do so now at www.justgiving.com/oxfamtrailwalkerteams They are doing the whole 100k in one go!!! (Ignore the talk about an event, the page is for sponsoring for the 100k).

Anyway, back to the trip. I left this morning planning on doing stages one and two. I also left this morning without a proper map and with some confusion over which station I should go to (I made the mistake of asking the front desk at the apartments to confirm the information I have found on the internet). Anyway, I made it to an MTR station which seemed vaguely correct then hopped into a cab with a driver who had no idea what I was talking about. At this point I began to question the historical significance of this trail and also my accent. For the second time this weekend I wished I had a compass and for about the millionth time since I got here I wished I spoke cantonese. On the plus side I do now own an Octopus card (like an oyster card but you can buy things in shops too. Barclays Wave eat your heart out).

Finally I arrived at stage 1, handed over what seemed like very large sums of money for a map (GBP6) and set off. By now it was midday (always the best time for walking), dry as a bone (would make a nice change if I wasn't walking up a hill) and a balmy 30 degrees (yes, that is hot). I had put on sunscreen, and was wearing the "JSM" cap given to me on junk day. Hurrah for the cap! I do have randomly shaped sunburn on one arm though. Odd.

Tip to others. Do not walk stage one. It take 2.5 - 3 hours and is pretty much entirely on a road alongside a reservoir. Sensible people take a cab to the last reachable place, where it is only short distance to the beginning of stage two, and a much nicer walk. However, there were stunning views. See photos below.

But, not knowing this, I walked stage one (wondering why there were so many taxis going past. "Normal" cars need (and cannot get) a permit. So just taxis. It was a nice walk but I do now realise why you should never go hiking on your own. Ever. 1, Minimal signs. 2. Far too hot. 3. 2 litres of water was insufficient. Next time I will ensure I take others or I take a compass and significantly more water!

Anyway, sweating (I can't deny it, too too hot), JSM marketing cap firmly rammed on my head, I made it to the beautiful beach between the end of stage 1 and the start of stage 2.

I had planned on doing stage 2, however it takes 5 hours so starting at 3pm having dunk all my water did not seem a sensible thing to do. A cold shower called (once I"d spent two hours getting home...). I will be going back though!

I am now (again) exhausted, and think I may have sunstroke. What are the symptoms? (I dare not google). Glass of ribena and (yet more) west wing and ben and jerries for me (did you know they now do a baileys flavoured one!? Is ace).

Markets

Today I took the MTR across to Kowloon from Wanchai. I thought I would have a nice walk across Kowloon, through the markets and then get the boat home. Ideal.

I hopped on the MTR (tube), changed as needed and arrived at my "destination". Ahem. I had also managed to leave home without a proper map and the station I had merrily taken myself too was not included in those stops covered by the guide book. Effectively I'd taken myself to the far Northern end of the Piccadilly line whilst planning a stroll round Leicester Square. So back on the MTR it was.

I arrived at my new destination, Price Edward MTR, and headed to the Yuen Po street Bird Garden and Flower market. I reached the flower market first, which was amazing. Those of you who came to the Christmas party will (hopefully) remember the hyacinth bulbs, which involved a 4am trip to Covent Garden flower market. No need for the early start here! So many beautiful plants and flowers and all costing so so little. Amazing (yes, I'm using it again).

I then reached the bird garden. Masses and masses of vendors selling birds, cages, bird food, crafting the cages out of teak and bamboo. A real sight. Some people showing off favoured birds, others feeding them treats through the bars. Some birds cramped in cages looking pitiful. A woman who did not cage her birds, they sat around and on her. The noise was incredible! Songbirds are favoured as pets as they are considered harbingers of good fortune.

Down Tung Choi street with the general market, the next stop was the goldfish market (goldfish help create excellent feng shui). Rows and rows of tropical fish, turtles, aquariums. Also a number of pet shops selling guinea pigs, rabbits and puppies. Even those of you with a fondness for puppies, I really can't imagine you wanting to walk a dog in this heat!

Further down you then reach the well know Ladies' Market. Here you can buy a copy of any handbag, watch or other designer item you desire. The general market sells everything else, including things it had never occurred to me I may need. Like a new toothpaste cap to prevent the tube blocking. Super!

Finally heading South again I reached the Jade market. Beautiful intricate carvings. By this point I was somewhat exhausted from the heat (very dry, hot, day today- which makes a change - I should have gone to the Peak!). Taxi it was to the Star ferry terminal, where I go the boat across to Wanchai and enjoyed the stunning views.

It's a sign!

On one of my walks around the mid levels I saw a sign that said: "WARNING! The American Secret Service is using Electromagnetic signals to make the people of Hong Kong sleepwalk and kill themselves".

Potentially informative.

Since then I've been keeping an eye out for signs. Here are a few I saw and liked today.

Junks

Ok, what kind of boat springs to mind if I were to say "junk" to you? Probably not a whacking great yacht, which is exactly where I spent my day today. Most unexpected and absolutely wonderful. (It has two staff and a boat boy. Less of the junk...).

So today was Dragon Boat racing day. We took a taxi to Stanley beach (GBP10 and takes about 45 minutes, black cabs will never be the same again). After fighting our way along the absolutely rammed beach (which we later discovered was for contestants only) - picture 1 - we made it to the pier and boarded the shuttle boat to the "junk". This was the point I saw row upon row of gleaming yachts and wished I had not worn my gym kit. (I had had visions of clambering over old rickety boats!)

It was a great atmosphere, food cooking, masses and masses of barrels of drinks (mostly nonalcoholic - this is a sporting event), bright colours, teams in fancy dress and lots of shouting and cheering.

The junk was tied alongside a number of others (about 20) and some brave folk were junk-hopping (going from one to another). Someone died doing this last year so I decided I was happy with the yacht I had made it onto. But so you can picture this, rows and rows and rows of yachts, all with food, drinks and loud music. JayZ a favourite...

So I spent an incredible day sipping wine, watching the races and generally relaxing. Beautiful weather, good company. I officially love Wednesday bank holidays!

I realise as I write I actually did very little other than chat and cheer. But it was ace. So if you're ever in HK I thoroughly recommend a trip. I have also said (if I'm allowed back next year) that I will join and enter the girls team that was unofficially "formed" today. We were good supporters so surely we'd be ace rowers!?

Yum Cha

Today started badly. 4/5am ish was the third time the fire alarm went off "in error" since I had arrived. On the upside this proves beyond all reasonable doubt that they did not deactivate the alarm after the first time it went off. On the less positive side I was almost in tears with tiredness on arrival at work today. (For the avoidance of doubt at no point did I actually cry). A lot of hot chocolate was consumed to maintain a sugar high throughout the day. Go sugar. Hurrah for it being a bank holiday tomorrow (as the apartment manager pointed out to me when I complained about the sleep-deprivation "tomorrow is a holiday, you can sleep then"). Words fail me.

Things improved materially when for lunch my team took me out for yum cha, literally meaning "drink tea", otherwise known as Dim Sum. I ate, quite literally, twice my own bodyweight in the most delicious food.


The team ordered for me and boy did they order. Some of the dishes we had were as follows (there are a number I have forgotten, I have never seen so much food!) When reading this please realise there were only six of us...


- deep fried silverfish (imagine deep fried tadpoles and you are close, you could still see the eyes)
- deep fried taro (a turnip like vegetable in squares with chinese salami, squares deep fried)
- shrimp dim sum
- vegetable dim sum
- roast pork dumplings
- sticky rice (as linked to the Dragon Boat festival)
- stir fried greens
- deep fried fish (a famous kind...)
- deep fried squid
- stir fried squid
- roast pork and mushrooms
- a version of victoria sponge (similar to the English cake but steamed not baked)
- eel, cooked with honey (surprisingly tasty)
- rolled rice rolls stir fried with soy sauce and spring onions (my favourite, am going to learn how to make it)

Pudding was a soup of red figs, fungus and a honey base.

Hungry yet?? Plus, if you run out of tea turn the lid upside down, it will be refilled!

If you see people tapping their fingers on the table when being poured tea it is not to ask for more, it is to say thank you. This comes from when an Emperor (apologies I can't tell you which one, but a long time ago) used to go out in disguise to see what the public were up to (and probably just for fun). Think celebrities in large sunglasses, no make up and a big hat.

So, he is out with his aides having dim sum. He has a bit to drink and pours tea for his aides. This is never usually done by an Emperor so his aides want to thank him. The traditional manner of acknowledging when an Emperor has done anything for you is to bow and knock your head on the floor. Had the aides done this the Emperor's cover would have been blown so instead they tapped their fingers on the table, mimicking the action of the head.

So, if you're out and someone pours you tea, tap two fingers up and down to thank them (or say thank you...). Handy when mid conversation and a waiter tops up your tea!

In an attempt to remedy the massive eating session and inspired by a colleague who just completed a 30day bikram challenge (which is, quite frankly, an amazing achievement) I signed up for a trial class called "hot yoga1".

90 minutes of yoga, in a sauna (arguably I could have just stayed outside, it is hotting up here). Whilst when it had finished and I had had a very cold shower I felt amazing. However, during the class I went through a range of less pleasant emotions including considering vomiting, fainting and wondering why everyone else in the class could contort themselves into quite frankly alarming angles whilst I spent as much time as possible trying to sit on my mat quietly and hope that that teacher did not notice me shirking...

This resulted in me getting my first ever taxi. For some reason the driver was convinced I really wanted to go to "Happy Hour" - I'm pretty sure this is linked to me directing him to the red light district (which is where I live, I did not choose my flat). However, I opted for home and now for sleep. Let the fire alarm stay silent (no work tomorrow so it probably will do).

Pen free zone

As I type I am sat in a computer shop in Wanchai. Putting a pen in your computer turns out to be a very expensive error. GBP280 for a new screen or GBP240 for a new laptop. Nice. So I am now waiting for the english version of windows to be installed on my new, tiny, white (oh the shame) laptop. I'm reminded, and for once not in a good way, of the scene where Elle goes and buys a pink MAC, dressed as a bunny girl.

I intend to create a "pen free" zone in my room. Laptop is small enough to actually fit in it...

Note to self "do you promise this is the cheapest laptop I will be able to find" is probably not my best negotiation stance ever. Hmm, as compared to the phone bill I as going to have without skype access it is probably a bargain... (Oh, and for those of you wondering after yesterday's blog if I actually spent GBP450 on a top I can assure you I did not. I'm not that bad!)

So fingers crossed that I manage to keep this one intact for more than 13 days. 10 days if you count from when I actually took the last one out of the box. Ouch.

Enough of laptops and expensive errors (this is like leaving my new McQueen jacket on the train all over again). How is Honkers. Well, no rain today, which is probably linked to it not being the weekend.

I am covered in mosquito bites - I had not had a single one (or even considered their existence) until someone mentioned them on Saturday night. I now own mosquito repellent, bite healer and 3/4 of my previous blood levels. Hurrah.

Today I learnt about the Dragon Boat festival, or the Tuen Ng Festival. This is to commemorate the death of a popular Chinese national hero, Qu Yuan, who drowned himself in the Mi Lo River over 2,000 years ago to protest against the corrupt rulers and the manner in which they were ruling the country. Legend has it that to prevent his body being disturbed (for "disturbed" read "eaten") by the fish the townspeople threw bundles of sticky rice into the river so the fish would eat this instead. They also took boats onto the water banging drums to scare the fish away. So now each year there is a festival to celebrate this, with Dragon Boat racing.

Interesting fact about HK bank holidays, they stick to the same date each year, so if it is a Saturday, no extra day off. Or they may be on a Wednesday.

Anyway, I'm out for lunch tomorrow and will hopefully get to try the traditional sticky rice dish. Am quite excited! (Hmm, it has been a quiet day...)

Hoe you're all well. Now I can read emails again please send me news! (Apologies to those of you awaiting replies).

The Peak

Firstly, apologies in advance for a higher than usual level of typing errors, omissions and misspellings. I have cracked my screen (shut the lid with a pen in it) and it now only shows in parts and is currently doing a pretty good impression of a strobe light so I'm basically typing blind. This is not ideal as I currently have a fairly high reliance on this laptop and I did only get it 13 days ago... Oh dear. This was not in the budget so I'll see how I get along.

Today appeared a relatively clear day which struck me as ideal for a trip to the Peak, so I set off to get the Peak Tram to the top. To put this tale into context I will need to talk you through my outfit, bear with me here. So, I left the house wearing my (only) summer frock, white with blue bits on, and a pair of blue ballet pumps (that would be shoes made of cheap cloth for those of you not familiar with differing styles of flatties).

As I left the house it began to rain but, as I have said before, who am I to let a little rain put me off. So I carried on with my walk in to Central. I have now become accustomed to taking an umbrella with me on all occasions so this was with me and I took it out of my rucksack (yes, I really was rocking the tourist look). The heavens then opened with more rain that I can possibly describe. I would have taken a picture but I was already battling with the map, umbrella and rucksack combination. So there I am "strolling" along, i-pod on, umbrella up, rain pouring down. It was at this point that I wondered to myself if it may be a good idea to buy a pair of wellingtons to walk to work in if the weather is going to stay like this for the duration of my stay (forecasts indicate it can only get worse). So, me + umbrella + i-pod + rucksack + map + rain. I must add that it is also very warm here so I am perspiring slightly (girls do not sweat). The random song selection on the i-pod flicks to "Beautiful Day" by the Levellers as I am wondering if my shoes/feet will recover from being one and the same as the puddles. Mmm, wet feet. Still, I do not turn back, I have come this far.

Rain continues. I look down at my, now drenched, summer frock. This is where the earlier detail is important. Yes, I am wearing a mostly-white dress and am drenched from head to toe (despite best efforts with umbrella, I intend to upgrade to a big, instant open one). At this point, I turn around. Walking the streets of HK looking like I am in a wet t-shirt competition is never going to be a good thing, and certainly not on a Sunday with a hangover (more about Saturday later).

As I turn back, as if by magic, the rain stops and the sun comes out. Right, I decide to head to the Peak, and hope that I am a little dried out by the time I see anyone else (the people taking shelter under the bridge that I have now walked past three times have already had a good laugh. I have nothing, literally, to hide from them).

I arrive at the Peak Tram departure point, a major tourist spot may I add, to find that every single other person there is as dry as a bone and looking perfectly groomed. This is not good. As I join the queue to get my ticket the two kodak boys do not invite me to have my photo taken to later buy as a souvenir. Wise of them but quite representative of the state I look.

At this point, somewhat oblivious to the odd looks I have by this point become accustomed to, I take off the ballet pumps (which have stained my entire feet navy blue) and put on flip flops (they were in my backpack in case I went for a pedicure later). I also put on a cardigan (despite the heat - something had to be done), smile and hope that my blue feet / see through dress / drowned rat appearance do not prevent me being permitted entry. I have by this point paid my £5.60 for the ride. Two kind japanese girls took my photo at the start of the tram line, but I'll spare you that. So here is the tram line, sans drowned rat.

I get on the tram, the ride up is like being on a rollercoaster but only the upwards part, that slow creaking where you wonder if you will fall backwards and are also waiting to tip over the edge. However, this is not a rollercoaster so no falling back and no tipping over the edge. I am trying to look as inconspicuous as possible to avoid being thrown off for scaring small children. Dress still alarmingly see-through and the man with the video camera next to me appears more interested in the views my side of the train that seems entirely necessary (I'm on the side with the trees, he is on the side with the cityscape). Anyway, I arrive without further incident.

So, as I left the house, clear skies. Then rain, which = raincloud. So, I am now in a cloud. At this point I decide food is the best possible option so I head to Mak Noodles. Has posters up advising it is a Michelin restaurant, and a bowl of noodles costs a grand total of £2.80. Best noodles I've had and you can see the staff making noodles and dumplings as you sit and eat. Wonderful. The dress starts to dry out and I am generally feeling much better.

So, I decide you will all want to see the view and I dutifully head to the observation tower, camera in hand. Sadly due to the computer incident I now cannot upload the photo but imagine a grey square and you will have the same as the photo I could have uploaded. Not even outlines of buildings, just cloud.

Mum, when you visit we'll cross our fingers for a clear day and head up there again!

As I had seen precisely nothing I decided to walk back to town, which is about 90 minutes down a (very) steep hill. I popped my trainers on (yes I did come out with three pairs of shoes) and decided that the dress + trainer look was the least of my worries. It was a nice walk (if you're ok with walking downhill) and the views gradually appeared as I moved below the cloud (this took a while!) I took a few city view pictures for you, but again due to computer mess up I cannot upload them (work folk please note, it is my personal computer that I have destroyed, fear not).

So I walked into town, by this point glowing nicely and still looking ridiculous. So a bit of boutique browsing. I look like just the kind of person to spend £450 on a top. Ahem.

I then went for a 50 minute foot massage (the sign promised air con and a cold drink). Absolute bliss, cold compress on the eyes, warm compress on the neck and a reclining chair. So relaxing. And a bargain, so a weekly treat from now on me thinks. Albeit I may have to go elsewhere, remember I had navy feet...

Anyway, this has gone on a bit and the flashing screen is hurting my eyeys so I'll save tales of Saturday for another time when I've less to witter about. Am off out to a vegetarian restaurant my colleagues recommended to me so looking forward to that!

Lei ho!

And then it was Friday. So I have survived a whole week at work. Tomorrow evening it will have been one whole week since I arrived. Time really does fly. I am slightly concerned that at 5.30pm tomorrow (the time I landed last week) I will be arriving at an ex-pat bar for eight hours of drinking pre England world cup match kick off. Not quite the lifestyle I imagined!

So, what have I learned so far. Well, in Hong Kong I am not funny. This may well come as a shock to those of you who are routinely reduced to tears of laughter by my general humour and hilarity but genuinely, not funny at all. Imagine being somewhere where no matter what you say no one ever laughs. Ever. Every word taken literally. Very odd. And for me, potentially disastrous. Apparently if I slip on a banana skin, that, now that would be funny.

You cannot drink the tap water here and have to boil it first as it contains a number of chemicals used in the processing, um, process. I am told that as a result there are less bald people in HK than elsewhere in the world. I do not wish to learn the exact composition of the chemicals involved.

You cannot send food in the post.

Post takes a l-o-n-g time to arrive here (have I mentioned that already ;o)

My office, to their amusement (laughing at me does not count) are attempting to teach me Cantonese. I have 'mastered', "hello", "thank you" and "I eat vegetables". This last phrase apparently conveys that I am a vegetarian. I have not dared try it in a restaurant. I have no idea how you spell it by it sounds like this "auw sek-sai". Put on your best Chinese accent and try it out...

So HK and I are starting to understand one and other a little better. Being honest when I first arrived it was not quite as I had expected. I assumed we would fall in love with one another instantly, be like old friends, easily familiar with one another. It was difficult and disappointing when this was not the case. But already, just one week in I'm starting to feel we may get there. We may not ever be best friends, but I think we're going to be friends, and I think it will be fun.

Now where did I put that banana skin...

What a difference a day makes

Well, ok a night. Excitingly, last night was the first night I slept all the way through (albeit aided). I now understand why parents can spend so may hours talking to each other about "how long did it take before..." when discussing the sleep patterns of their various offspring. Miraculous. No jet lag, no fire alarm, no random insomnia. To be honest I mostly feel inclined to go straight back to sleep for another eight hours and do it all over again. But, work calls.

Today is dress down day at work and I have been advised "anything goes". I am not going to opt for a literal translation, and as a number of you have pointed out recently, I am pretty casusal, een on a smart day... However, I am somewhat fearful this may be to see what the new girl will wear (we've all seen the scene in legally blonde, but fear not, I've not (for once) packed baby pink tights and a leotard). I know, disappointing. Anyway, apparently it is a jeans and heels day. High heels. Which will make a change as office footwear of choice appears to be flats, which I am starting to quite like. But enough about footwear for one morning.

What other news do I have, well, next Wednesday is a bank holiday (hurrah!). I will look into the origins of this for you but at the moment all I know is that it is for the dragon boat racing, so I know where I'll be Wednesday. If anyone has a friend with a boat with a place for me to watch from - please do let me know ;o)

Enjoy the world cup fever. I thought I had left all that behind me but it now appears I am watching it Friday and Saturday, and at much less social hours....

Have a good Friday and speak soon.

Time zones

As you will see from this post the jet lag has not entirely disappeared. I blame the fire alarm at 4.30am HK last night, although I am told by those who know such things that it takes one day for each hour so I've a while to go yet. Roll on next week!

It is quite strange being in an entirely different time zone, my working day is now planned in relation to when I need to be in contact with certain places and as a result I have the world time zone website pretty much permanently open on screen.

It also makes the benefit of technology clear, it is really nice to wake up to emails from friends who are going to bed as I wake up (depending on the jet lag levels). On this note can I just say how lovely it is getting all your emails and comments and for my wonderful phone call this evening. Really helps make me feel settled in and at home here so thanks!

Right - sleep hopefully calls. Fingers crossed the fire alarm does not "malfunction" again... I did love the explanatory note that advised there was no fire, it shouldn't have happened, they don't know why it happened but they are able to assure us it wont happen again. Have they permanently disabled it? Seems best not to ask...

Rain and rooftop bars

Today was the first rain since I arrived in HK. Today was also the first day I was supposed to be going to a fancy roof-top bar, Sevva.

Still, of things I'm used to, rain is one of them. No need to let a bit of water put you off when there are drinks to be had and handy roll out shutters.

Other than the rain the views were beautiful, city views but beautiful. I look forward to seeing them on a sunny day!

Packing lessons learned

OK, so when I packed to come out here I also moved out of where I was staying in London. As such all items were divided into one of four (ok, four official, six unofficial) categories:



1. Needed on arrival in Hong Kong - to go in my luggage

2. Needed at some point in Hong Kong - to go in the box being sent by the office

3. Not needed in HK but probably needed pretty sharpish when I get back - to go to mum's

4. Not needed in the longer term - to go to storage


(5. Items I forgot to take to storage or mum's and as such distributed round friends in London in a panic, Thanks!)

(6. Items that I forgot to pack elsewhere so they had to come to Hong Kong with me, oops).


Now, other than needing a few items to be allocated to 5. and 6. (bike, wine, random assortment of candles and stationery) I thought I had done pretty well on the packing front. Hmm, so far, I'd say not so well. These are the following lessons I have learned to date:


1. Putting all dvds and books along with my only day bag in a box from the office was folly. Said items most likely to be needed when battling jet-lag, not when I have a full scale social life (fingers crossed I gain a full-scale social life, initial indications are good).


2. It is sweltering here. Two pairs of jeans and one summer dress? You really have to question that decision.

3. No sun tan lotion. Now, I can't actually see "sun" the "mist" (I will have to start calling it pollution soon) is too think, however, in this heat there has to be an argument that at somepoint it will be needed.

4. No plasters. New shoes, need I say more.

5. No peanut butter. Ok so they sell it here, but not the crunchy, can almost pretend it is good for you, one I am addicted to (yes, there was a reason I did not pack it but that does not mean I don't miss it).

6. More gym-wear that I would ever use in the UK (have I mentioned it's a bit warm here).

7. Continuing the gym theme I have two pairs of trainers and one pair of flip flops. What was I thinking??

8. I do not have the cable to connect my i-pod to my computer.

9. I have a beautiful, smart, warm winter jacket and no summer mac.

And there was me priding myself on my organisation.

I have my fingers crossed that the "office box" wings its way to me soon (along with all my bank stuff for here which is also somewhere in the ether). However, it takes two weeks for an airmail letter to reach here (yes you did read that correctly) so I have no idea how long a food / book / dvd parcel will take to arrive!

Would that be a shopping theme so far?

I promise more cultural updates later. There has been talk of trips to the Peak and to the Happy Valley Races. Hurrah!

Local knowledge

Ladies, emails at the ready. Gents, dust off that birthday book (you know you have one). Today I learnt about The Sales. Oh yes. Boy do they merit capitalisation...

I have mentioned previously that Hong Kong has every shop known to man, and then a few more for good measure. No designer worth his or her salt does not have a store within a few minutes walk of my new office.

So, The Sales. It appears that in just a few weeks all stores will be offering 30% off all this seasons collection. Hold the excitement. This is not and I repeat not the time to buy. A few weeks following this the reductions go to 50%. At this time, and the girls in my office assure me this is correct, there is still a wide range of all this seasons stock in most sizes etc. This is when you buy.

Later discounts hit 70%, however this is considered to be end bin stuff - why would you want that??

Send the shopping lists through...

First day at work

So, clearly the title gives the punchline of this one away! Today was my first day in my new office.

I decided to risk the heat and walk to the office (which was met with some amusement by my colleagues). A nice walk in that it takes about 15-20 minutes from where I live, which gives me just under two hours extra time a day as compared to the London commute. So, heat was not sweltering, but definitely warmer than I'm used to. Cardigan safely in my bag to deal with ice-cold aircon on my arrival. Lou-lou, I know you're wondering, and yes, I did wear tights.

Anyway, walk a success but a plea to all you grazia readers to please scan and email me any "tropical beauty" or "hot for summer" makeup articles you come across. I'm not entirely convinced that having makeup that has basically melted halfway down my face is going to be a good look on a daily basis. Product suggestions please!

Office day went fine. I have a desk, a bin, stationery. All v good.

I decided to not explore this evening and instead to have a night of final jet-lag recovery. So a wander home via the supermarket. Those of you who have ever been in a supermarket know it is not a place where I usually (a) show restraint or (b) shop sensibly. However, I am amazed to admit that my entire shop (I won't bore you with the list) cost £22! £4 of this was for special K red berries (I couldn't for the life of me work out what to have for breakfast). Two aubergines cost 68p! This, I hasten to add was the "expensive" western supermarket. My oh my, I don't know ow I'll face Sainsburys on my return.

I also discovered that the Wanchai market was on, which is absolutely amazing (am I overusing the word amazing?). I never knew there were so many food products I couldn't name! Not for the squeamish as many items are kept alive until sale. Absolutely fascinating. It also caused me to take a bit of a detour (or two) as my carefully plotted route home was somewhat disrupted. Still, I made it back without too much of an issue having had a bit of an explore. I think I'll be doing my shopping there next week!

A bit of a wander

It's official, I have jet lag. Only upside is that, ever mindful of forthcoming Team Squirrel half-marathon, at 6am I hit the gym for a whole 30minute run. Nice. What a way to start the day. Clearly I have had a nap since and am praying I sleep normally this evening... On this point there is a Hong Kong boot camp. Memories of Cayman Island boot camp possibly too vivid for me to consider this seriously but it is an option. Otherwise please can I have a volunteer to train to piggyback me round the Royal Parks??

So today, post gym excitement (?) I ventured out for a bit of a wander on "day 1" of my trip here. I am yet to discover the underground walkways so I decided to brave the heat. In all honestly it is not so hot you can't walk around (yet). I am somewhat regretting packing only one summer dress though. Officially an error. Will have to go shopping....



Shopping will not be a problem in HK. The guidebook list of things to see appears to predominantly cover shops. The roads are lined with every kind of shop you could possibly imagine, including and M&S and Harvey Nichols. There are few designers that do not have enormous flagship stores here. The BAPE shop even has a revolving walkway for the trainer collection. Glamour, glamour, glamour.

So, I am in Wanchai. Lots of bars, restaurants and furniture shops. Yes, you guessed correctly, I will be shipping home a few items for the house-to-be. (Nothing purchased to date).

From Wanchai I walked to Central, home of said fancy glass fronted designer shops. Here I ensured I said hello to Stephen and Stitt, stroked a paw and asked them for luck on Monday. For those of you that are now confused, Stephen and Stitt are the two lions guarding the entrance to HSBC.

Up the escalators and hills with steep steps to the mid-levels for quirky boutiques, across to the Soho area (with more food than you can imagine) and market stalls. Soho apparently stands for "South Of Hollywood Road". No, I can't make that work either... Cath Kidson bags seem to be all the rage with most stalls stocking a couple. Clearly the new Louis Vuitton. I also discovered a place when I can do courses, I just need to decide between hat making and home-deco (you get to make a cushion, it appears to take four weeks). Hat making tempting but I can't help but think a cushion would be more practical.

Back down to Central and to the Hong Kong Park which looks as though it could be an area of beauty, peace and tranquility, but today was hosting the Forum for Filipino Overseas Workers, as sponsored by Western Union. Less peaceful.

There are thousands of, predominantly Filipino, workers sitting out in all areas of shade / steps as today is their day off. Really amazing to see these huge groups of people sitting round packing cartons to post, chatting, sleeping or signing along to a ghetto blaster.

The buildings are incredible, so many tall, tall towers. Many looking as though they are made of mirrors. These contrast with much older, poorer buildings. There is also a lot of development in Wanchai with large areas shut off for building works, although it is not clear if these are ongoing or whether they have been mothballed. Am sure I'll find out when I get to work!

So I am back at my flat to sort myself out for day one in the office. I feel like it's back to school and I should have a new pencil case! Here are a few pictures of the view from my balcony (can I call and area less than 1m sq a "balcony". Maybe it is a view point... Anyway, this is what I can see!

I have landed!

Welcome. Firstly can I just warn you this will not be an exciting post as I have just arrived in my new apartment and, bar sleeping for the majority of an 11 hour flight, I have not really done much. But I'm jumping ahead of myself so I'll start at the beginning. Gillian - pen at the ready for those all-important precedents.

19.45 (UK), Friday 3 June. The "Limo" arrives (for "Limo" please read "Volvo"). I hop in, still slightly confused as to what exactly "in car check in" is. No champagne in the car.

Car arrives at an entrance to Heathrow that I have never seen before where my bags are whisked away and I am greeted by the friendliest woman I have ever met (think your mum when your favourite friend of hers comes round). I am invited to go through the super quick (there were three of us) airport scanning and into the lounge. For the first time in as long as I can remember post hip-op I didn't beep at the scanners, which makes me slightly wary of Heathrow security.

Still no time for anxiety about ability to commit acts of terrorism, the "in car check in" means I have minimal time to make the most of The Lounge!

So, I arrive at The Lounge (I am still sufficiently excited by this to feel it merits capitalisation). The aircon is not working so it is distinctly tropical. To fit with this random 80s tunes are playing and it all feels very Club Tropicana. I am saddened to admit that I did not take advantage of the free bar and work my way through as much Lanson Black Label as I could in 40 minutes, but instead had a chamomile tea, a salad and a cranberry juice (two drinks mum, I did want to make the most of it!). Note to self there is a free spa in The Lounge. If I ever get to do this again I intend to arrive at the airport at least 12 hours early so as to take full advantage. You can even get a haircut!

I am then whisked onto the plane and am again forced to admit that I was too tired to stay up for the delicious looking dinner and more drinks, nor did I watch a single dvd so yet more wasted freebie fizz missed. Madness. Instead I had a single glass of champers and went to sleep. I am still wondering where this show of restraint came from!

Slept until about 90mins before we landed and had a delicious but tiny breakfast of blueberry griddle cakes. Do you really think they had a griddle on the place or has someone invented a microwave version? Anyway, tasty but tiny, possible explaining current hunger pangs.

At the other end all went relatively smoothly, slight confusion over where to find the car to the apartment but before I knew it we were driving through mist (smog?), tall buildings and I found myself at my new home.

It is very nice, but tiny. I'm not sure how well my natural haphazard / untidy nature will cope with living in a room smaller than most hotel rooms for three months but I think it will be good for both my organisational skills and expectations for housing purchases when I return to London. For those who saw it, this is similar to Martigues, but they manage to fit a "kitchen" in too!

Very little to report, I have attempted to unpack, realised nothing will fit and left the majority of the carefully packed items back in the suitcase, probably not to be seen again until I pack for my return!

Shower, an explore and food calls. Definitely food! Then I will open all the nice cards you guys gave me, how exciting!